How to Build a Walk-In Shower (Part 2: Wedi Panels)(Step-by-Step) — by Home Repair Tutor

If you want to learn how to build a walk-in shower, then you’re in the right place This is my walk-in shower. I personally love it because it’s easy to clean. You just walk right in. There’s no tripping over curbs or tubs. It’s phenomenal. It’s our dream bathroom that we saved up to remodel Now here’s the deal: In today’s video, you’re going to see how to build a walk-in shower using the Wedi building panels. They go on your framing, then you put your tile over top of that. And the reason why we’re showing you this is because we feel like you can do this yourself. If you’re a DIYer or if you’re professional, we know that you can use the Wedi building panels So we’re going to show you how to build out the walk-in shower today. If you missed our first video, you can watch I right here That’ll show you how to install the Wedi Ligno shower pan, which is pre-sloped and easy to install. So right now, let’s dive into this video. We’ll show you how to build a walk-in shower step by step. We did this in less than 6 hours, and we know that you can do it yourself. So let’s do it Okay, so our back wall with our bench is 5’ ¼”. So we’re going to have to go ahead and cut this first panel around the bench You just want to measure down to that dado joint off the top of the bench. So I got 20” It will measure to 12’ 3/8”. So I always just cut my cut mark here. I just use a chalk line. Just score this with a knife. What we do is we fill this dado joint with the Wedi sealant, and be very generous with this because that’s going to be your major waterproof area here. So you basically just squeeze that into place You want to put your first screws from the bottom of the pan. You want to be about 12” away from the bottom. And the main reason for this is keeps this joint nice and tight Because you don’t want to screw this in and have this deflecting in and then pulling away from your dado joint. So about 12” is usually pretty good for that first row of screws. And then after that every 12” And you want to tighten these washers to the point that the washers indent into the Wedi, just kind of like a drywall screw. You want to just have it recessing One nice thing about the Wedi: If you miss the stud for any reason, you’re just going to be able to apply some sealant over that hole, and it’ll be waterproof. So about every 12”. And then when we do the next panel, we’ll be pinching them both together with the washer One thing that I did want to mention is there is no front and back to the Wedi building panel. But when you see the Wedi wording on it, that gives you orientation. So we’ll show you the top and the bottom, the left and right. So when you make a cut, if you see the Wedi wording on the front, at least you know the right orientation of your cuts and whether or not they are on top or on the bottom. Now what Steve is doing here is applying the Wedi sealant on the top of the first panel That’s critical to create a waterproof seam Now he’s puncturing the back of that first panel to indicate where the hole is for the pipe coming out of the wall and then cutting that hole using a 1” spade bit. We kind of forgot that the pipe was in the wall, and we applied the sealant. So we had to apply the second time to make sure that that seam is 100% waterproof So yeah, so that really makes it easy to be able to figure out where your hole is just by puncturing back the membrane and then cutting a hole. So now you have the pipe sticking through here. Now you can just flash this with the caulking to make it seal around this pipe. But we’re probably going to end up doing that once we get all the tile in and figuring out exactly how deep it has to be

with our tile work. Okay, so when you put the next panel in you just pinch the two together with one washer, and that makes a nice, flush transition I meant to mention that these building panels are meant to be on 16” centered walls. So make sure that your framing is 16” on center or close to it Now let’s go ahead and smooth this out We’re going to be going back over this We don’t want this stuff setting up So we do have a niche here. And what we did we marked out the bottom of the niche. Go inside here. We’re going to cut this out So we have 34’ 9/16”. And we put our level marks for where we’re going to cut this Steve used a level to mark out the position of the niche, as you can see there. And then what he’s doing is cutting out the niche using a Fein Multi-Master multi-tool. You can also use a utility knife, but using the Multi-Master is way quicker and saves you tons of time. Now what you’ll do is you’ll pinch the screws about 1” from the edge of that niche. You can use a chalk line to cut out the rest of your boards. And wherever Wedi meets Wedi, apply a generous amount of Wedi sealant. Only use Wedi sealant. Then you can apply your next board to the top of that Wedi sealant. Put it in place. And then again pinch the screws between adjacent boards This will save you screws, it’ll save you time, so on and so forth. From the edge of the top, you’ll always want to put a Wedi screw about 1” away from the edge on either side. As you can see, that’s exactly what Steve is doing here. And only use Wedi screws and Wedi washers when applying Wedi to your framing. And smooth out any sealant that oozes out between the seams. Again, Steve is marking the position of his niche and cutting it out So for the niche, we’ll go ahead and cut a bottom sill first. Okay, and you want to make sure that your sill is actually draining into the shower. So if any water hits the back of the niche, if it gets underneath the tile, make sure that it’s level to pitch on the shower. You don’t need much. It’s roughly say ¼” per foot, just like the shower pan will be good enough. Just make sure you have Wedi caulking to the bottom building panel. And we’re just going to seal this bottom together. That’s just the Wedi sealant. So just make sure that you have enough sealant around the perimeter of the niche. And then wherever Wedi meets Wedi make sure you have… This is the most important joint I’d say here at the bottom here, making sure you have a good caulking joint. We’ll smooth this out for now. We’re going to go over this on the final sealant stage So what our recommendation possibly for the niche if you want to get a little bit deeper of a niche, is to use the real thin board This is 1/8” thick Wedi, so you’ll be able to do this in the back and give yourself at least another 3/8” in depth. So it’s always an option Wherever Wedi meets Wedi, you want to put a nice caulking joint, especially at the bottom, and then going up the side panel as well So let’s set this panel in place. That just makes a nice, flush cut on that Apply a generous bead of Wedi sealant to the back of the niche and to anywhere where the Wedi meets Wedi. In this case, Steve is applying it on the blue part of the Wedi panel, putting in his small piece for the niche. And then using screws and washers 3” from the top, 3” from the bottom, and right at the center of the small portion of the panel. Smooth out the Wedi sealant, so it doesn’t gunk up on you. We are going to apply a second layer of Wedi sealant later on. But as you

can see, Steve is applying a nice, generous bead to anywhere where Wedi meets Wedi. Now one thing we did want to mention is you can buy a pre-fabricated Wedi niche. In this case, the niche is so small that they didn’t make a pre-fabricated one at the factory. So we had to build it using excess Wedi panel. So you can do the exact same thing that we did for a customized shower niche. This only took Steve about 20 minutes for Steve to do, so it doesn’t take all that long Okay, so the most important part of this system is making sure that you have a sufficient amount of sealant in your dado joint before you adhere that panel into the channel. So be very generous with the amount. And that’s what also is nice is to have some blocking behind here. Now we recessed this pan below the subfloor. So I mean it’s your bottom plate allows it to just squeeze up against that. But it’s a good idea just to fill this entire joint with sealant. All right, in where the corner where Wedi meets Wedi, you want to make sure you have a nice joint You can see the way that’s oozing onto that joint. That shows that you have a good amount of coverage in there. We’re going to be going back over this, but you don’t want this to setup and be all clumpy in the corners So again about 1’ from the bottom and then every 1’ after that. Notice that Steve is positioning the washers on the Wedi panels, then he’s going to back and screw them into place. You can also draw a vertical plumb line on the Wedi panel using you level and a pencil or just a chalk line We have a port here for a handheld shower, so we’re just going to demonstrate how you easily be able to find where that location is. So you usually have an area where that’s at. So that makes it pretty easy to find Okay, so that dry fits well. So wherever Wedi meets Wedi, put a good caulking joint Wherever two panels meet, you can pinch them together using a screw and a washer. Wherever two screws meet in a corner, you always want to stagger the screws. And then you’ll see here that again Steve is just puncturing the back of the Wedi panel and then cutting it out using a utility knife. That is so much easier than using a cement board, which can lead to you have to measure and cut it out So wherever Wedi meets Wedi, you got to use the Wedi sealant. Apply it to the blue portion of the board. To the corner, like Steve did there. You’ll see many of the principles that we’re showing you right now, we’re using over and over again throughout this video tutorial, like pinching the screws, putting them 1” from the top of the framing or the edge of the board, and so on So after you have two walls put in, you have over half an hour of time. You can take off the weight out of the shower Okay, so against the bench, we’re going to end up Wedi-ing this entire bench and tub surround. But for right now, we’re going to just go to the edge of the shower, and we’re going to just notch out the Wedi so that this sets down into the dado of the shower pan. So if you’re not going to waterproof the entire tub surround, you definitely want to come out a good 2’ to 3’ outside of the shower area and seal this down. We’re going to make sure that it sits tightly to our subfloor here. Sits well with that dado channel. Again, fill this joint with the Wedi caulking. Again, make sure you clean out this joint of any thinset or any debris, and make sure that you could get adhesion to the actual foam pan. You don’t want anything hindering this sealant from making contact with the actual Wedi. Wedi the corner. And what we’re going to here we’re actually going to use the Wedi caulking on the main subfloor as well. Now there will be a waterproof heated

cable system that we’re going to be using on the outside of here. But we’re just going to seal this Wedi panel to the subfloor. Tehn we’ll show you how we’re going to complete the waterproofing of the edge of that On this bench material, we’re just going to be screwing a washer about 1” away from the top of the edge, and we’re going to stay within 8”-12” from the bottom of the panel. So just like your other wall panels, you just want to make sure that you’re at least 8”-12” away from the bottom of the panel. And every 12” Okay, so on this bench any horizontal surface that you put Wedi down, you don’t want to use the washers and screws and screw in horizontally So we’re going to thinset this board down instead of using any of the fasteners. ¼” notch trowel. Again, either flat side your trowel and burn it into the substrate first Where the Wedi is, you want to wipe that thinset off and get down to the blue because you’re going to want to seal the Wedi to the Wedi with the sealant, not the thinset. So with the sealant, too, you don’t have to worry about it being wet. It’ll seal itself to the membrane even wet, even with a little bit of water on it. We’re also just going to back butter the back of the Wedi as well So yeah, anything Wedi to Wedi make sure you have a good amount of sealant. Wipe the excess sealant. Smooth for now. Hopefully when you’ve framed it, you sloped it as well. You always want to make sure that your bench is sloping into the shower, so when you tile it, if any water gets below the tile, that you’re waterproofing double the drain that water. So here we got about ¼” per foot. So that’s about what you want. Yeah we’re pretty level that way So just double check. You can always possibly build up the thinset and get that slope if you needed it Wherever Wedi meets Wedi, apply your generous bead of Wedi sealant. In this case it’s up against the framing as well, where the bench seat is going to be, and then up the wall. And this is really important because in this particular shower, the sprayers are going to be hitting that back wall possibly Now water goes everywhere in a walk-in shower, so you have to make sure that you’ve got 100% waterproof panels. In this case, the Wedi system really helps you do that. Again, what Steve is doing is placing the washers about 8”-12” up from the bottom, and then smoothing out any of the Wedi sealant that oozes out between the panels. And also going 12” in between the screws and then up the wall again. Many of the principles that we’ve already showed you with the other panels we’re using with this wall as well, all right? So just continue to follow these general principles, and you should be good to go So this is your plumbing wall. I also meant to mention that you can install this panel It doesn’t matter whether the lettering’s on the front or the back because each side is waterproof. So it really doesn’t matter which way you install the panel. So we’re

just going to use our panel. Puncture the center. I’m just going to use a 3” hole saw for my dial. You can obviously just cut this out with a utility knife, too. But this looks a little bit nicer. Okay So make sure you clean out that joint before you go installing some new dado. Then our Wedi meets Wedi. So then in the corners you want to offset your washers. So you don’t want to put the washer next to a washer in the corner and have that big void all the way around that corner What we’re doing now is prepping for the Wedi sealant. We’re applying a generous bead of Wedi sealant against the framing And then Steve is marking out the position of the joists on the Wedi panels so that he knows how to attach the screws through the panels Okay, so we put our sealant around the edge of the perimeter of the shower where Wedi is going to meet Wedi. So the biggest difference we do in a ceiling is the spacing of your washers. You want to go every 6” rather than every 12”. And we’re actually going to be putting another little piece here, so we’re going to put these two together. It just requires a lot more fasteners To make life a lot easier with the ceiling, you can place your washers in them every 6” like Steve is doing here. Sometimes it just makes it a little bit easier to place the washers first then drill the Wedi screws through them. It’s up to you. Whatever you want to do is fine. But in this particular case, sometimes it’s nice to just have the washers in place and then screw them So as Steve mentioned earlier, we had to place a little piece of the Wedi panel up on the ceiling there. Not a big deal. Just screw your washers in about 1” from the edge And then pinch your washers and screws in between the adjacent panel Okay, so now that we have all the building panels up, we’re going to go ahead and apply the Wedi sealant to all our screw washers, all the joints and all the corners. Two tools that are really helpful: Wedi actually sells a corner putty knife. This makes it tremendously easy to have a nice joint in the corners, keeping you from scraping out the sealant in the corner. So definitely get yourself one of these. And this is just a standard 4” putty knife. And the rule of thumb is pretty much getting 2” of coverage on a joint. So 1” on either side of the corners So that’s kind of what you’re looking for. But it’s a very simple process. Let’s show you how to go across. You just have a nice, thick bead of the sealant. You know, I’ll do this whole wall first rather than going back and forth with the putty knife But you want to just dot every one of your washers. And then the corners. Just put a generous amount in that corner. That’s where the sausage gun is really helpful because you have a lot more caulking in this tube You get a lot more done than just a regular caulking gun Okay, so your corners. So a corner putty knife

really makes a nice, sealed joint in that corner. So that makes a nice corner joint there. As you can see I have some of my washer there. So you just want to make sure that each washer is completely covered. That’s where the flat putty knife is helpful with that. So anywhere you see those washers. And really anywhere you missed the Wedi screw, make sure you just apply that sealant over that joint as well Anywhere a Wedi panel meets a Wedi panel or you have a screw hole or a washer, make sure you apply generous amounts of the Wedi sealant because this after all is what will make the Wedi panels 100% waterproof. So be generous with the Wedi sealant All right, so around the niche you just want to fill in—you don’t have to worry about the blue being exposed necessarily, but you want to be able to coat this entire joint that we have between the side panel and the front panel here. Because even if this blue is exposed, it’s still waterproof. This is actually the waterproofing. So you don’t actually necessarily have to have that all covered, but you probably will be having it all covered once you spread out the sealant Be generous with the Wedi sealant where our vertical building panel meets up with the pan because this is where you want to make sure that it’s 100% waterproof. Keep in mind that the building panels are sitting down into the ¾” dado joint and already have sealant on them. So this is really a second layer of the Wedi sealant. Now in this case we’re applying more of the sealant on the bench because this is exposed to the sprays and the shower head. And also the corner between the vertical board and the shower seat itself. And then smooth out all those joints, ensuring that you get that 2” band within the seams So one of the things that I absolutely love about the Wedi system is, you know, a lot of times you do this waterproofing before tiling. And you have other contractors coming in and working on the place. And it’s just very easy for somebody to puncture the membrane And what I wanted to share with you—this is just one of the washers that we have. Now imagine if you used a different type of system that was only just a surface membrane, and if you were to step on this, you could easily just puncture a membrane. But with the Wedi system, this is ¾” thick. So as long as whatever you drop, say even a utility knife that falls into this pan, as long as it doesn’t actually penetrate all the way through the pan, you’re safe. It’s going to be waterproof So that’s one of the features about the Wedi system I absolutely love. You don’t have to be as nervous about dropping a tool or dropping something that could possibly puncture the top of the surface because you’re still waterproof underneath that as long as it doesn’t go all the way through the pan And that’s a very common time is between having other contractors coming in and doing different work before you do the tile. If you did a sheet membrane of some sort, it would be very difficult for you to tell where something was dropped and potentially where something was compromised with the waterproofing But with the Wedi, I mean even if you dropped a good size hammer hole, you can just fill in this hole with some Wedi caulking and be good to go Okay, so with the Wedi shower pan, it’ll come with these little ½” pieces of Wedi that is made to fill in anywhere that the

shower is going to be curbless. And it’s really important to use this between the subfloor and the main floor. And you’re just going to seal this in just like you do everything else with the Wedi sealant. And it seems a little silly to have such a small piece, but the main important part about this is that if you just fill that with sealant, it’s not going to have the strength it needs for say if you have smaller mosaic tile, there’s going to be a little bit of a flex. So you want to make sure you have this little piece of Wedi embedded into this joint Okay, so we’ll fill that just like all the other dados. Just apply a normal 1” layer sealant on either side of this. And then what we have is a Wedi subliner. And what you want to do is… So in this situation, you always want to have waterproofing going outside of your curbless entry, at least by 3’ or so, and wrapping up the sides of the liner up the wall about 4”. So this is prior to obviously before we’re going to be installing the drywall, and then you have this against the Wedi. Always go 4” up above your corners, and then 4” past your seam of your shower. So you want this subliner coming into the shower. Now in this particular situation we’re actually going to put a heated flooring system outside the shower. So this subliner will go over top of that heating system after we have that installed. But I just want to reference that if you were not going to install a heating system, you just put this straight down over the plywood by thinsetting this and wrapping up by 4”. And then you just simply cut the excess of the doorway and allow this to flap over and into the shower Okay, so that’s it. That’s installing the waterproof Wedi shower system. And what’s awesome about it is that that took about a half a day to install this entire waterproof system. And I can actually get started on tiling here. Basically after you seal all the joints, about 30 minutes after that you can start tiling. And if I wanted to do a flood test on the floor, which I do recommend, you can go ahead and flood test this shower floor two hours after having it installed So really there’s no other system that can be that quick. It’s really incredible. A traditional way of doing this, you’d be set back two, three days easy. So that’s one of the major reasons I love Wedi. And all of that, just the simplicity of putting everything together So I hope this helps you out. I really feel that anybody can do this. You just follow these tips and the way to install it, and you’ll definitely have peace of mind that you have a waterproof shower. So thank you All right, so that’s how you build a walk-in shower. Remember if you missed the first video, you can watch that right here. It shows you how to build out the Wedi Ligno shower pan If you liked today’s video, give us a thumbs up over here on YouTube, so that people can find it. And then finally, if you’re looking for more advanced bathroom remodeling videos, you can check them out over on BathroomRepairTutor.com So you can go to BathroomRepairTutor.com That’s where we have support for DIYers; we got extra videos. Actually we have over 100 different videos for you to watch on tiling the floor, tiling the shower, putting in waterproofing for your floor, and so much more. So again, you can check that out on BathroomRepairTutor.com Thanks for watching today’s video. We’ll see you in the next one. Take care. Have a great day