How To Install Showerpan Liner & Mortar

okay on this video I’m gonna show the how-to of a shower pan it’s never really my intention to show do-it-yourselfers how to build a shower pan or more or less build a shower just because there are some complications that arise with regard to plumbing and setting the pan and all that stuff that if it’s done wrong it would be a big mistake however there are some people out there that are very good at doing their selves regardless of what they do for a living and so for those people let me just explain a little bit about the shower pan process this one’s already set this is a shower pan liner to be more specific and so I always sweat the bell VIN before I ever put the pan down because you don’t want drops of solder getting onto your pan so that got done a little bit earlier I always scab in these two by sixes on the side here and some of my other videos show that and I started doing that when I started building showers just because it made sense to me I didn’t liked the idea of the pan you know dipping back with the mortar that Ison that I put in here I just wanted some I want some rigidity to the thing and so that’s why you know I told nail these two by sixes all around the side the only place I skip is where it’s not really possible like this pipe right here but it doesn’t really matter it’s only about three inches or so anyway that’s what I do other people will do a different way YouTube is full of people showing how to do stuff and everybody has their own way of doing it and there’s no right or wrong way but there is a correct way in other words in correct would be that you have problems and so this after about 14 15 years of doing these is a correct way of doing it because I’ve never had a call back I’ve never had any issues anyway basically what we have is a curb and this curb is made up of pressure treated to by Forest I know there’s other videos showing that you build a curb with concrete bricks and all this other stuff but really it’s irrelevant wrapping the curb is very relevant whether or not use concrete brick two-by-fours you know pressure-treated the way I do or whatever because you do have issues with curbs sometimes and because of that I always like to wrap the curb all the way down to the bottom on the outside anyway that’s the way I do it and getting to the pan itself the pan lighter goes in as one contiguous piece this thing is not gonna be cut anywhere except right inside here now in the drain let me get a flashlight again as I said everybody has their own way of doing it drain goes in by virtue of these bolts and the bolts have this drain planned on it they you know the top of the drain gets screwed into I cut I cut like a cross our school square if you’re not square across I don’t go quite up to the edge of the end of the drain I just allow enough so that when I push this flange in that you see those flaps you see the flaps so in other words and I you know the water is gonna naturally if it does seep up under here it’s gonna naturally want to go into there because it’s got no other way of address I’ve seen other guys that have cut a circle around this pan and sometimes they put the flange straight down sometimes they put a bead of caulking up under it when they cut the circle and then push it down or push the flange down and let it dry and I guess hope for the best I don’t like that idea I don’t even use coffee on this there’s no need to because again you know the water has nowhere to go but now down into the drain once this flange is set and again I’ve already screwed these down so I’m gonna take my part but basically I do the same thing I can reach up under the pan imagine the flange not being here once I make this cut I can reach up under the pan itself the liner and I can feel the hole where the bolt goes in and I kind of like push on it to know where it’s at and then I let the flat back down and and then I put my finger on top of the pan and then I cut a little tiny cross a little tiny one just enough for that bowl to slide through and it slides through pretty tight the cross that you cut is very very small and the bolt just gets pushed through as hard as possible until it hits that hole and then it gets tightened down and then

time it’s for all the way around so again the only cuts that are made they only perforations made is this this one cross right here or X if you will and then the four little ones for the bolts once that’s done then I can put the bolts back them out you know enough to put this flange down and turn it turn it that way once they get locked in then I can tighten them down and then of course cap goes on and cap goes on but depending on what you think you’re gonna have so from about from bottom to about the edge of here it’s about two inches and then as I add the mortar and tap it down and you know start to smooth it out and everything then I realized that maybe that’s too low and then I back it out and then I keep that come out I’ll keep that you know and I might end up with four inches over here it’s possible but I might get done so it’s better to start out low than it is by although it really doesn’t matter if you start out high and you realize that this is gonna be you know the spot that you need and you don’t turn it down but that gets messy because then you have excess more that’s going to get on top of here and you don’t want more fill in the drain obviously this has a plastic lining on it that I take out after title setting everything but anyway the point being is I usually set it about right there and then just pour the water around until I get to level that I want and if I have to back out a little bit and I do and I rate that’s my water you take this people always ask me about weep holes weep holes these little four things right here and the weep holes will actually take water in you can see the liner in their liner is right at the bottom of the weep hole so if any excess water gets into the pan then theoretically it gets into the weep holes and you know drains right into the drain which is another reason I use the flaps here so that it goes straight down I can’t imagine having just a little edge if people cut a circle just a little edge of that for the weep holes to get into because it’s possible that if the water does get in the weep holes if you can slide up under the pan liner and then you’ve got a problem downstairs so anyway there are weep holes there’s also troughs there it looks to be about eight of them and these little tiny troughs will also let water just slide down into the drain so you have out eight of these troughs and then you have the four weep holes and then in addition to that on the inside where the troughs are a couple of them let me say there’s one two there’s two of them where the troughs are there are no threads and so when you turn the drain cap down you know you’re going to have that that little eighth of an inch or so it’s going to talk a little eighth of an inch right there opening for the water to drain down into the drink if any excess water should get in there so there’s a lot of ways for water egress you know going into these drain caps you know then of course the idea is not to ever have water into your pan but almost always water gets into a pan it’s a matter of how much and over how long time most of that is going to have to do with tiling process you know when you tile whether you’re using 4 by 4 or 2 by 2 or 1 by 1 you have grout lines and grout lines are the water is going to penetrate the most so what I always tell my customers is to be sure to seal you know the saturate the bottom of the pan of course you’re gonna be the wall is to grout lines on the walls but that’s not as important as here and so you just want to saturate with sealer after everything’s you know dried out the tile and the grout and all that stuff is dried out after a couple days just seal seal seal maybe four or five times dependent want to type the tile you have and how many grout lines you have but I always suggest at least three or four times once that occurs water has no choice but to go straight into the drain it’s going to be like a duck’s back on the top of the tile so water should not penetrate into the pan at all anyway the most saturated pans I’ve ever had are usually upwards of 10 12 15 years old anyway with with crappy tile and non-standard grout so anyway they do last but I’m just saying if you want to last longer that’s the way to do it anyway I’m gonna move on the mortar process actually I got to get started on

this pretty soon because I got to get out of here this takes me probably about thirty minutes to floor pan and what I use is I use this concrete mix is actually not concrete and in terms of you know it doesn’t have any rocks in its mortar mix the mortar mix is used for brick and block and that’s what you see between bricks and blocks is more so that’s what I use usually four bags does it I keep the fifth one just in case out in the truck and this is two bags empty and I got two more bags here once I mix that up and I use a shovel and a hoe and mix it up and I just kind of slop it into the sides and all around and everything and kind of like I said earlier tap it down you know to get to the point where there’s no air bubbles or gaps or anything like that then I’ll use the other two bags and do the same process and at that point then I use this little handy blade here I think it’s a 12-inch blade but I use that to kind of like smooth everything out and that process alone probably takes me about 15 minutes of that 30 minutes I was telling you about just because I do it by eye there’s a lot of cheap ways I not say cheap ways but there’s a lot of different ways that people do it some people will actually figure out that the edge of their liner will be a certain height going down to their drain with a slope and they’ll use some type of marker whatever color they desire and kind of mark around there with a level and so when they start pouring in the mortar they’ll realize where the marker is and you know no that’s the height that they need to be and then the natural grade will go to him there’s also these ridges that Home Depot and Lowe’s sells and you can actually put these ridges in I think they’re plastic and you can come off the size and they pretty much stay inside the bed once you’re done because once these ridges are done they’re so high in the back and they taper down to the drain once they’re all cut and formed and all that stuff then you pour the mortar straight in and then just kind of taper off to the top of the ridges and that’s another way and you know I’m sure there’s probably half a dozen or a dozen more different ways to to do that I do it by eye I use a level of course I’ve got a couple different size levels and the process like I said takes me probably about 15 minutes to just get it all taper down to where I want it the next day tomorrow this mortar will not quite be dry and I use the same blade I can scrape off any inconsistencies if I’m tad higher over here than I need to be from over here to over here I can kind of scrape off the inconsistencies and then the following day once it’s thoroughly dry is when I actually set the tile then I can manipulate my thin set according to any consistencies as well and then put the tile down at that point and that’s how I do it and it’s just kind of a part and parcel it’s it’s a redundancy that I’ve done for so long that I’ve just gotten used to my my way of doing it and it’s not again there’s there’s all kinds of different ways you can do it that’s just my way and so I’m gonna get started on this one and and I hope you kind of learn something from this it’s it’s so easy for me that I don’t realize people really don’t know about this stuff and I know I know for homeowners it can get kind of complicated when they don’t know what they’re doing but this is this is made to let you know how real simple this is there’s there’s nothing to it process after this you know it’s pretty tedious to it’s just time consuming putting the wall board up and red guarding and all that stuff and then we’ll be ready for tile at that point anyway that’s it I’m gonna get started on pouring this pan okay as I said before it takes me about 30 minutes I think this took probably less than that maybe 20 but anyway it’s pork and I used all four bags I could have stopped at three I would have had a little higher depth down here at the end I think I have about two inches by the time I wrap that with door rock it’ll be a little bit higher but I did for now these ridges that you see inside the mortar that’s my level so I always level on the corners and here and then going across the back here and the reason I do that obviously I’m doing up for the slope make sure I have a good slope going down so when the water goes on that you have a bit drain the reason I do it on the edge here is I want to make sure since my first tile usually goes in the middle I want to make sure that’s as level as possible and then the rest of the tile will go on

the wall the rest the tile would get cut down at the bottom and make for an even row since that will do my first row anyway it is done as I said this has a little plastic on it but there’s enough holes and those those drain holes at the top where the water overnight will pull down here and go into the weep holes that I showed you earlier and then also if there’s any that’s water it will go over into the drain into little holes and it will be pretty much dried tomorrow I always put a fan on it overnight about medium speed or so I know they run their heat in here and that helps take a lot of the moisture off of the pan what I did notice when I put my level on is that this end is a little bit higher than that end and I like them to be about level so tomorrow morning when I come here as I said I use my scraper and I’ll be able to scrape off the discrepancy and get that a little bit lower than it is now but that’s basically it that is how to do a shower pan and I hope that helped