Build electric skateboard in under 24 minutes |

hi and thanks for checking out this video so today I’m going to show you how to build your very own electric skateboard the kit includes everything you need to convert any other debt that you have upon you into a high-powered electric skateboard so let’s take a closer look at what you get in the inertia and power kits firstly we’ve got the power cell and it comes with the leads already pre-wired in you’ve got a port here which allows you to quickly charge the Power Cell using the supplied battery charge of it the Power Cell is constructed with a tab here which allows you to use the existing truck bolts in the deck so you don’t have to drill too many holes through your deck and that will mount just like that here we have the speed controller 120 M designed to control two separate murders in sync it also comes with the kill switch to arm the system the battery and the ESC are house completely in aluminium which provides great impact resistance and protects your vital electronic components the kit also comes with a 2.4 gigahertz controller and a balanced charger to charge our our cell you also get some conduit to run your cabling between the Power Cell and the speed controller you also get some nice blue braided cable protector to run between the speed controller and your motors to protect the cable the inertia power kit also comes with 250 millimeter motors which you can see I’ve already installed here in the propulsion system if you want to see how this all goes together check out my other video on my channel it shows you how to build the propulsion system from scratch so building your own electric skateboard is really easy with the combination of these two systems the inertial propulsion kit k1 and the inertial power system you can convert any longboard any skateboard deck into a high powered dual drive electric skateboard in a matter of minutes you do need a few tools today we’re going to be using a drill so you will need one of them we need to put two holes in to secure the Power Cell in place screwdriver tended to have some needle nose pliers because we are doing some figlio things inside to ward or a marker so you can mark the position on the board it’s a great idea to mark the centerline and just basically mock-up how your boards going to go together before you drill any holes so you can use your marker to mark that out the kit comes with some heat-shrink so you need some sort of heat to melt the extra a skate tool is a really good idea if you haven’t got one we sell them online actually we sell it a tool kit comes with that it also comes with all the allen keys and things you need to put the option sitting together so check that out online so let’s just do a quick mock-up and see what this is going to look like when it

all goes together it’s so great I need to do a mock up first and it just gets it clear in your head what it’s going to look like so position your power cell there you’ve got two leads running down there the kit comes with these leads already you probably need to contact me and tell me if your board is much longer than a meter because the cables will need to be modified otherwise you get about 50 centimeters of cable there so you can chop it down and adjust it to suit your own board so the speed control is going to sit there and the propulsion system just behind it like that okay so that’s the mock-up of what it’s going to look like we’ve got a conjurer here that keeps your wires or net texture-wise that runs between so let’s get stuck into it we’re going to first mount the power cell here if you have a deck like this one that has a little bit of a micro drop in it you need to just put your you get a good level platform to Matthew power cell so if you buy one of these kits you get some truck prizes anyway but just make sure you get that right the Power Cell comes pre-installed with automotive grade double-sided tape this does a few things for you while it takes the shock away from the other medium and the wooden deck you don’t really want that vibrating around there so that dampens that vibration and it also helps hold it in position here even though we will have two screws going to the deck they’re bolting it in position the double sided tape I find really helps with you mounting it also comes on the bottom of the ESC this actually doesn’t require screws it’s quite lightweight and the automotive grade double-sided tape that we’re using here can easily hold the weight of this on the bottom of the deck so minimizing the amount of holes you need to drill so let’s get started first we’re going to mount the power saw so figure deck bolster getting them in position like that first definitely helps finishing this now before you put the double sided tape down you need to get the surface of the deck really good clean I’ve got some methylated spirits here cloth you need to get any of the residue greasy residue whatever off the deck if you want that to stick down nicely and do its job that’s what you’re going to do so go ahead and remove the double sided tape just peel the layer off there the tapes are running halfway on this here because that’s the surface area that it’s going to be touching each deck is different so some decks they’re perfectly flat you run the whole length of the Power Cell but if it’s not going to be in contact with the deck you don’t need it there it’s just going to have to stick into it so we position this you want to get it right the first time so use your deck bolts there make sure that’s square and make sure you’re happy with that position if you’ve marked out your deck you’ll be able to see here where the center line is so you just slowly bring it down make sure you’ve got everything lining up there okay now that’s in position finished putting air rises in on this deck we’re using two Rises and the actual power cell is sandwiched between the two Rises there that will help reduce the vibration as well our medium on how iminium vibrate so so both the front shocks on make sure you use nuts with a nighlok in there you don’t want them coming off when you’re doing 45kg on the street and

is not a good thing okay the double-sided tape will hold that in position now so turn the deck over get it into a comfortable spot go ahead and tight now now just remember when you’re putting trucks up just remember when you’re putting your trucks on never over tighten them if you keep tightening the bolt head just get pulled into the deck so we don’t want that you can always tighten it up more later so just get it on pretty well to start with okay the Power Cell is now fixed in position it’s time to focus down the other over the board so this is a bit more fiddly but a few wires to position here you want to make sure everything is nicely positioned and bear in mind the bat tracks just like the front ones move but these have wires going into it so you need to make sure that when you’re turning and the trucks are tilting on an angle you’re not pulling the wires out so it’s important to have a think about this during the mock up stage work out precisely where you’re going to put this I’ve already got it marked out here as you go I should it’s going to help a lot so we’ll go ahead and fix this in position just like we did at the front we’ve got we’re using two truck prizes and keeps it nice and even then grab a damp clothes get some of the nuts on there that holds it in position while you’re working you cannot go around at the end and make sure you tighten everything up perfectly position the ECS once you’re happy with it clean the surface on the deck try not to rub off your marks otherwise you won’t know where to put it so there’s a slide we’ll concave in the deck here so we’ve actually got another piece of tape just in there to build up that gap in the middle get the wires out of the way you don’t them stuck underneath it getting positioning right where you want it once it goes down you can’t get it up and once you’re happy with the alignment drop it down in position now this automotive grade double-sided tape doesn’t get its full strength until about 24 hours so it’s pretty strong straightaways they’re going to fall off but it’s bear that in mind it does need time to get its maximum strength so now it’s time to run the conduit have a pretty cut to size it’s got a dump site of tape on the bottom you want to make sure it’s going to fit in there nicely get it perfect before you double sided tape it so once you’re ready to install the conduit there’s a little bit more fiddly work that needs to be done we need to take off the end plate here off the power cell because this actually fits inside the two slots so take a lid off the Batchelor just pulls out like that and you can disconnect the battery if you want however you will need to just remove the end cap there four little screws hold that on so I just got around remove them okay so the ends come off now you can go ahead and install the conduit to run the wires between the Power Cell and the ECS so insert one in first push it all the way in and get it seated and then slowly lower down the other end double-check your positioning yeah that

looks really good and just tap it down okay they need to run the wires through the conduit into the speed controller there and you can just feed them through and you’ll see them come out the other end now at this point it’s handy to have a needlenose pliers you need to grab the end of the cables that you fed through and insert them into the junction box it’s a little bit fiddly take your time try not to damage anything once you get the cable insert it into the junction box there you can tighten that up and that will hold it in position make sure you’ve got the right cable leading into the right spot okay once you’ve got your wires in there you can put this end back together you need to make sure you put Loctite on everything when you’re building Electric skateboards otherwise the vibrations that you get through everything will just fall apart and you have no components left so just a tiny amount is enough I’m using 262 threadlocker it’s a higher strength threadlocker and I’d recommend using that especially on the propulsion system you ok so now we’ve got our wires installed running from the power cell into the ECS I will take this opportunity to drill two holes and fix this end of the power cell onto the deck okay now I’m going to drill two holes to insert these two smaller deck bolts to hold this end of the power settle down as you know this end is fixed using existing deck bolts so this Sam needs two new holes so let’s do it okay you turn the deck over you can see your two holes in there I like to use a little countersink bit just to get the heads of the deck Bowl sitting here flush you can just do it with your hand take out a little bit of the group tag and just that little bit from the deck drop your bolts through there flip it over and get the two little nuts on there go ahead and tie them up with skate tool these don’t have to be overly tight just keep your eye on the top of the bolts you don’t pull it through the surface of the deck nothing worse than ruining a beautiful deck with pulling the screw head straight through okay now it’s time to insert the battery back in there and put the lid back on the power cell so just connect your cables first feed the battery back in be careful to

not pinch any of the cables into their own squat slide the lid back on the lid of the Power Cells held in place by one every screw I’d recommend putting a little bit of Loctite on that as well you can easily get it out still but it just holds its top – coming loose okay now time to connect all the motors up to their speed control the easiest way to do this is just undo the kingpin so now you’ve got the backtrack hanger pulled off here you can easily access the wires here this is a little bit fiddly take your braided sheath here feed it over the wires coming out of here for the right side motor and the left side motor now that just needs push that in there goes on to the inside of the out medium housing just gives you a nice net finish and also protects the wise make sure you feed the antenna wire at the back with the mo wires put it inside the braided sheath so you can’t see it it’ll be protected as well just feed it out in between to the wires so once you have you with that run your cable tie around there to hold it all on there we go tuck the wires all in now you can go ahead and fix the lid onto the ECS you okay let’s go ahead and do the final step and that’s get the motor spinning the right way so go ahead and plug them all in just plug them in any way you want just make sure your cables are in the way push them down to the side just put all this back together for your first test that will hold it there arm your system that’s always a good sound install the key the speed control do its big test now the ECS has to

detect the position of the murders okay once you can see here that one’s spinning the right way you want to spin that way this one’s spinning the wrong way so we need to just go in flip one of those wires around on the system take any two wires and just swap their position so take a pic okay so when you’re happy that you’ve got the wires all connected correctly we’re just going to do a few finishing touches to get a really professional look into height otherwise so you need to take two bits of pinching here and that’s going to hold the braided sheath at the top of these wires just before they go into the body of the motor so just go ahead and disconnect your wires remember which order they’re in slide your piece of heat shrink up onto your motor wires and it all the way to the end then go ahead and connect it a lot what I also like to do is take some tape and just bind them all up the three wires together you don’t want them coming undone at all when you’re writing there’s a lot of movement in the trucks and it can pull on the wires without you really even knowing it’s doing it’s a little bit of extra tape there you really want that to be a secure bond they don’t when they’re coming apart cut some tape off and start winding it around individually each of the Y’s we wrap it up awesome tightly aren’t you happy with it I also like to make sure my wires are twisted around get them nice and flat okay once you happy with that feed that braided sheath up and inside that patron there aren’t you happy that you’ve got that in position get your heat out and shrink that down try not to get the heat on the braided sheath because the melts pretty easily okay once you’ve got all your wiring together just manipulate trucks back and forth make sure you’ve got good play in the wires there you don’t want any force going on there you can bend them around a little bit make sure you got plenty of slack in there if you happy with it time to do the final test nothing better than that sound if your motors don’t work sometimes you need to just move the motors back and forth until the computer can detect the position and then they’ll spin up okay disarm the system time to go over everything and just make sure you’ve got everything done up nice and tightly and securely and in no time at all you’ve got yourself a high-powered electric vehicle which will be the best phone you’ve ever had four wheels so now you can see how easy it is when you’ve got the inertia DIY electric skateboard kids you can easily make your own electric skateboard using pretty much any longboard deck in a matter of minutes thank you for watching make sure you subscribe to the channel go and check out our Facebook page and just remember