How to wire a dashcam, into a rear view mirror powersupply.

one of the things you’ll need to do to be able to wire up any device that needs to feed off of your rearview mirrors power you’ll need to find a diagram or a connector pin layout and basically what you’re looking for is power and a ground and preferably if you want your device to switch off when you turn your car off you want an accessory power so I use all data DIY also use Mitchell I just haven’t been all data and here is the pin out for my mirror connector and as you can see yellow as accessory voltage and the black wire is ground so those are the two wires we’re going to be using okay here’s the connector for my mirror if you remember it was the yellow wire and the black wire now I’ve already connected these two wires a long time ago knowing that I would be hooking up a dashcam and I did have one hooked up already but the converter failed then I got another one I’m sure you guys had to do it I know unfortunately this part I’ve already done so I’m not going to really show you specifics so after you’ve looked at your wiring diagram and you know what colors you’re looking for to tap into you really want to get a multimeter and test it so in my case that was the yellow wire and the black wire and I’ve already tapped into them up here under that electrical tape and so one of these is positive and one of these is negative when the keys on cuz on the wiring diagram instead of as accessory power which means there’s only power going to it when the kay is turned over so I got a crappy little multimeter we’re going to use for situations like this it’s from Harbor Freight they’re free across the dollar now for things like this they are just fine you don’t need anything fancy then you use the tape to help us on this one hopefully that’s touching in there and it’s not oh forgot one key thing remember this accessory powder so and we have voltage now I have the leads hooked up backwards so since since it’s showing negative this red one that I’m on right here with the red lead is really the negative and the other side is the positive so I’ll switch them around and show you alright I had to switch to another meter now I could use these alligator clips to hold on to it but as you can see I have the red on the right the black on the left and my multimeter is showing eleven point eight volts which means that the red on the right is positive and the black one on the left is negative and if that was a negative eleven point then my leads would have been reversed so this multimeter is fine the Harbor Freight one that I just showed you but it uses weird leads that aren’t like your typical your typical leads that are fully sheets like this one the ones from Harbor Freight are cut off so my leads wouldn’t work on that meter and to show you so I could use the

alligator clips and so once you’ve confirmed that you have your 12 volts on accessory power or doesn’t have to be accessory power it can be all the time but you have to be wary of your battery being ran down but anyways once you’ve confirmed you have your power then we’ll move on to connecting this actual lighter socket plug to it there’s a few ways that you can do it the end of the lighter socket is the positive part the side is the negative so this part that my fingers on is the negative and the end is the positive now you can take this apart there’s a wire that connects to the the negative one and there’s a wire that connects to the positive one and you can desolder that add in your own wire then connect it to these and then just stick it to the back somewhere which is what I did on my last one what I’m going to do this time is I’m not going to bother taking this apart I’m gonna skip this up with some sandpaper let’s get the side out with some sandpaper and then I’m gonna solder directly to it we’re gonna wrap it in silicone tape and I’m gonna stick it right to the back of the mirror I’m also going to shorten this court and I’ll show you guys all of that under the next step okay so the first thing we’re going to do is shorten the cord and I don’t need it very long this right here looks good I’ll get a little bit off of this other end and you want to save some room on each end in case you have to cut it back we’re going to cut this back to expose the wires underneath and I need a little more than that and do the same thing on the other hand too much on that one and we’re gonna peel these wires back engage of these wires is too small for my wire cutters smallest gauge on here is 22 22 so this wire is smaller than that so now what you want to do is after you’ve shortened your wires and you’ve exposed them of course you want to put them together what I usually like to use is these non-insulated cramps the alternative is is the insulated kind which are really bulky I’m not a fan of you can get the ones that are heat shrink are down out this hard plastic but in a we’re going to be non insulated kind before we do that I’m going to pick some heat shrink that will fit over it so that works fine all right so what I did was I just

twisted each wire together if this would focus I just twisted each wire together stuck them in one end the non-insulated clamp can come together so of course this left one end open but that doesn’t matter the point was to get those two wires to touch okay and now we’re going to insulate them so this is what’s called marine heat shrink tubing we’re going to cut a piece put it over it and we’re going to shrink it and the marine heat shrink has an adhesive on the inside of it that’ll ease out and protect the connection we’re going to take this put it over it and measure how much we need I’m not sure this is getting seated at the bottom we’re gonna want this to ever touch I’m gonna start from the top my way down now we’ll do the same for this side and you can start to see then that he said ooze out when you see those out that’s what I like to see I’ll fill in any gaps and then it paints the ends together hot little keep anything from getting in the end and then glue on the end will seal it now what we’re gonna do is take some of our silicone tape I like to look on tape way better than electrical tape there’s no mess to deal

with the adhesive it bonds to itself after 24 hours at the solid piece now the downside is it’s kind of expensive all right so what you can do you can take this apart and you can find out where inside the wire goes to the board and you can unsolder whatever wires in there and take this side crap out and you can take this end piece out and you can take the 1 amp fuse in there out and then you can just borrow a little board but the way this one is is the fuses in this tube right here and for simplicity sakes I’m just going to sand and scuff up this metal on the end and on the side and I’m gonna solder a piece of wire directly to it that’ll make our connection to our mirror we’ll wrap it with silicone tape so it looks decent and we’ll put it behind the mirror so nobody will be right so I already took the end of it out I don’t want to deform the plastic and I already pre soldered the end of it and preset our date of my wire and I also sanded it all right now that’s on there well we tend the end of our tip and now resides inside of this I already stood up a little I made that lead a little long I thought I was cut it back where’s cheap so I don’t have to do it again cut this back and get them out I know I’m gonna pretend the side of this it’s already pretend the side of it and I’m gonna pretend the wire and then I’m gonna connect them I lost my helper so I’m doing it by hand again right so I got it set it on there put the end back in I’m gonna screw that on there give me just a second all right got a little heat shrink on man and I will just protect it from any shorts all right so here it is all done this is why I use the silicon tape it’s much cleaner no goo no mess I will take it down there we’ll hook up the ends see if it works all right so we got our lighter socket adapter connector whatever you want to call it and I’ve crypt I’ve crimp things on don’t forget to put your heat shrink tape on first I’m gonna run it up over it and then we’ll connect it and see if it

works all right so I got it connected got it connected to the wires I’ve hooked up to my mirror we’ll turn the key over we’ll see if any smoke comes out – cam turned on lights on this now what we can do is clean up our wires right here I’ll wrap them in some silicone tape will stick this to the back of the mirror and roll this wire up a little bit – really should have made it shorter but oh well and I’ll be back after I’m done cleaning it up all right I got it all wrapped in silicone tape plug it in now I just kind of cool the wire up where you can’t see it stick it right like that coming back after I have it stuck on there there it is it’s officially wired in the mirror a lot better than having a cord going down to your light socket I’m sorry you’re a cigarette lighter socket turn the key over – can turns on and this can be used with radar detector anything that’s pretty much low power consumption most these mirrors can handle an additional amp or two without an issue as you can see I can turn the lights on the fuse doesn’t blow this uses less than an amp all right so I wanted to make a last shot here showing us how it looks so this is the course 10 and it tends pretty dark in this car and you can’t see behind that mirror you can under X unlight and that’s what it looks like the mind and I just wanted to add on to this video to kind of show you everything that you’ll need for everything that I used so this is just primary wire you can get it from Home Depot you’ll need a multimeter to find your positive and ground power on the ground this is just what you can get from Harbor Freight these work fine this is also the marine heat ring to me that I use from Harbor Freight this works great as well get the get the marine one works great for automotive you won’t have any problems with corrosion this is the silicone tape that I recommended but of course you can achieve either old electrical tape this is the 3m tape that I use to stick it to the back they call this some type of mounting tape I don’t remember I’ll put links to these to everything I can from Amazon description you also need some crimpers I got these in a kit a long time ago they worked great they’re cheap I wish I could find another set like them probably could if I searched online very simple these are the other type of non insulated crimps that I’ve recommended these are just so much better when using heat shrink tape there are smaller footprints they’re easier to work with especially when you’re dealing with multiple wires if you put if you put two of these next to each other and you’re crimping a wire you put two of these next to each other you’re taking up a fair amount of real estate compared if you put you know two of those together heat shrink also you need a good soldering iron if you’re gonna if you want to solder quickly without hassle so

I used to use those 25 watt or 50 Y or whatever wattage those ones that you would get this the stick soldering guns the one you plug into the wall and those are okay those will work but where they’re so low powered they take forever and I use this I don’t know what brand that is HECO fx-888 D and I’ve only use the you know 1015 times yourself but it makes the job so much quicker having one of these all right guys all I got until the next video you