AMC Jeep Intellitronix Create A Dash Install

hello today I’m going to show you how to tear the instrument cluster apart say can install your created – first if you look at the backside got these six screws here remove them and then you’ll see how to install the Creator – okay now that six screws are out you just remove by gently pulling the cluster out of hole the temperature gauge in the fuel gauge just pull straight out the speedometer head you have these two common screws here that you have to remove and that just slides right out so what you’re left with after you remove the speedometer head the temperature gauge and the fuel gauge is a circuit board attached to the plastic housing just take the circuit board slide it so it unclips from these retainers here and remove the circuit board this plastic housing you can discard now if you inspect the circuit board closer you’ll see on the backside you have these six pins here just take the pliers gently rock the pins out these are what we’re used for the factory fuel gauge and temperature gauge then what you will do is you’ll use the template that you made of the backside of your housing here and you’ll cut your ABS sheet and drill the holes that match these six holes for the mounting on the bezel so this is what the bezel looks like after you have all the estimates out yeah five little plastic clips that hold the front cover on the hood remove that I did with mine is right in here I cut this out so I could have the space for my created – individual instruments you have a screw here you have to remove that what this is for if you have a column shift automatic you would have your indicator here for Park reverse neutral Drive so on so you remove this and the plastic piece comes out here just like so save this piece you will need okay so this here is the piece that you removed from your good instrument cluster and you’ll see you have to trim it down so it fits back in to the cluster without getting in making interference with your speedometer head okay now it’s time to label the circuit board if you look here I have a red line this is the ignition feed I use this to connect my ignition positive to the intelligent eletronics create a – this one here is the ground feet its body grown so I strongly suggest that you make sure that the strap that goes between your engine and your body is a good one okay right here the ire that’s for a right turn the L left turn so what you do is the wires on the back of your speedometer hook solder the right turn lead up to here left turn up to here this is your high beam indicator this here is where your temp would go to the old sending unit so I just wired my temp sensor while you’re onto here my fuel sensor while you’re on to here okay so after you once printed circuit board onto your abs plastic I drilled the hole through here through here and through here to run my leads up

from the various gauges also where this hole is here I marked out on the template that I made at laughs control that way the whole idea of this is just a plug and play with your existing car so you plug the wiring harness in and you don’t have any other messing around to do except for these leads here you have the headlight dimming this you’ll hook up to your headlights this is signal for dimming okay this here is your TAC input and this here is your speedometer input other than these three leads and everything else will just be plug back in if you notice I have two wires coming out here connected to this this is a port that was not used on most of the AMC’s iPhone some instrument clusters that had an up arrow for when you’re supposed to upshift I have one that has it says Chuck engine so I decided to do what the factory did and use it as a check engine light so I have on the main housing here I have a LED that is connected connected to this is right here it’s for the check engine light because I inverted my 258 in my Eagle to a fuel injection I took the head and fuel injection system off of a four liter Jeep and what this ballast resistor is for is I had discovered that if I don’t have this in if I have no codes the LED would go faintly so I put the load resistor in that takes care of the problem because it sucks down the current that would otherwise barely illuminate the LED which was kind of irritating okay you’ll occasionally hear stuff that sounds like I’m in the midst of a terrible terrible thunderstorm it’s just my three and eight year old upstairs jumping her own rattling my heat work okay after I got all the gauges mounted I used one long stand off and one short standoff as you see right here that bring brings the displays just behind the lens the other thing that I did is after I first assembled it if you notice there’s little foam pieces in here I could see the solder traces through the lens and I I really didn’t like that so I decided to hide them and I just made little foam pieces that fit around the displays that gives a nice black dog view the whites here I really wish that the plastic would have been molded and black because you can see the display slightly through the display so anyways here’s the check engine light that I have on it and I will show you what it looks like let’s all put back together if you remember I said one of the things that you should have for doing the installation is microfiber I don’t know how well it comes through on the video but there are little dust particles here so I’ll use my microfiber cloth and I just clean it up it gets rid of any fingerprints and picks up the little dust particles so well display is lit lit up you would actually see them in between the display and the plastic there’s other videos on YouTube where you can see the little plastic pieces it really detracts from the attractiveness of the gauges okay here you see the

gauges again reassembled I have power hooked up just for the lights looks like when we turn on the headlights they dumb down I got man recheck the wiring for my temperature gauge because I lost the display here and it’s reading five that happened to me earlier at one point I have to check us out or join to figure out exactly where I went wrong one other thing I need to point out is this year odometer display down here the bezel the plastic would actually come up this far so I just took a file filed that down so I can read the odometer and fly a little bit on the top so I could get the top part of the display also the bottom hole down here for this is where the clock used to be the screw is set inside just a little farther on the housing than all the other screws so I cannot put a screw on the backside to hold the instrument panel in actually I had to trim out this here gets in the way of the circuit board so I actually had to trim this down to fit here so I’m not able to put a screw in to hold the ABS in that area but since it’s not going to be visible anywhere I’m going to use actually what the factory had used on some of the cars to seal the cover onto the front and I’m just going to use some tape on it to help prevent any dust from getting inside okay as you see I got this display here taken care of is actually something real easy as my alligator slip that I used to show for this demonstration and second here I’m going to show you what the left signal the right signal the four ways and what the high beam displays look like I’m here okay let’s see what the various displays look like that of course is the right turn there’s their high beam indicator I’ll explain to how I made it look the way it does in just a little bit that is you left do your four ways so how I was able to get a nice blue dot like that because if you notice my habit part you have a crescent in here what I did is I took a soda straw and a piece of heat shrink that I put on the black back of the soda straw just so won’t let the light back up because I really don’t want to have any circuitry or anything else highlighted behind the instruments on here really awesome I was really worried when I first got the gauges because I tested each one before I installed them in a circuit board and I didn’t have shaded ABS in front of them or the shaded Plexiglas in front of them and they were really really great and it’s worried that I was gonna have problems that night with having the blindness from it but the they really get shield down good when you put the headlights on it dims it’s a real good point it does not dim the turn signal or the high beam indicator I really haven’t had a problem with the high beam LED being overpowering and of course you’re not going to be driving real fire with a turn signal light on so that that’s not a worry it’s nice having it bright so you’re not one of these people that drives down the road for 15 miles with your right turn signal light on and then you end up turning left and also right here is the check engine light indicator

so I get reinstalled in the car let’s turn on the ignition straights you can see that indicator there’s a few things I wish Intel atronics would have made available for for this as an option I am going to miss him not having my clock they could fit a small clock right up in here there’s plenty of room they could use this push button here as functions for the clock without much difficulty I would assume I would like would like to have been able to have dual color LEDs in here you could program the to go from like my white display I had 4500 or 5000 rpm whatever speed I would select then the display would turn red as my warning I wish that this these two bottom displaced here were not lit when you’re not moving and when the engine is not running duh it’s just a little personal thing I do love how the displays for what your gauges are for have a little dimmer have a bluish tint to it it really adds a lot to the uniqueness of the displays if you notice these buttons here have the white dot on it that I put a dab of paint white paint on the tip of each one and I slowly lowered my gauges into the bezel with plexiglass in it so I knew where to drill for the holes for the buttons because another thing that I don’t think would be real difficult for electronics to do would actually with the little manual that they give you have just a template of like three and a quarter gauge here you have the square Y of the four screw holes for mounting it and then they could also have another dot of where the button would come up that way you could actually put transfer it to the plexi so it’s a lot easier to drill that hole also if they have a template for these individual gauges of where the four holes are so you could make if they only wanted to give you one template that’d be fine you could copy it you know scanned it into your computer duplicated four times print it off cut out the templates lay them down on your abs say then you can mark your screw holes it would make it a lot easier to try to mount the displays I guess that’s really the only criticism that I have for it I did have to deal with customer service shortly after I got these I have to say I got good turnaround time and I think about the customer service I did care for is they didn’t answer the phone he had to leave a voice message then they call you back which meant that on my phone I have my phone programmed so any unrecognized numbers or was that our in my contacts my phone automatically just sends him over to voicemail so I had to turn that off when I had to leave a message for him but they did call me back within 10 or 15 members what happened is my TAC shipped with out overlay for this led Harris at rpm so I just had a huge white block but they did send me they they call them stencils I would call a decal even though they don’t have any adhesive adhesive on they sent me to with see rpms and two miles per hour I just used cut it down to just larger than the RPM put it on some cellophane tape taped it on to the LED display then I use the black paint pen and black tin the part that would show the white light coming through I have to say that for the price I am extremely happy with this I like the idea of the customization that you do have with it you know you have Dakota digital I haven’t seen anything of Thurs

where you can actually do this you know everything in the case so you’d have to disassemble it I wish they did sell these gauges individually and not in kit form because what I wrote I would have kept my old speedometer had which was only an 85 mile an hour and I would have gone with using the factory fuel and gas gauge or gas gauge and temperature gauge what I really wanted was the tach and they do sell tacks individually but they’re already in the can I didn’t really want to risk destroying the tack of by taking it out of the can that it’s in avoiding the lifetime warranty because I had removed it so I like this road I’m really happy that I did but that is pretty much it thank you for watching and have a good day goodbye okay you may have noticed that while the optional things I did say that you might need as a mere cruise control speed sensor now how would you call you with mostest upset transmission I had to buy one of the screw and adapters and the speedometer gear because on my Eagle it has the Ford style speedometer cable that plugs in to the pinion adapter so I bought a mold power adapter proper gear so do you want to skewer rear end in it so anyways what you do on the transmission the adapter would have the threads how I did this is I screwed the intellytron annex cage speed sensor into the back of this I bought myself a 1 foot long speedometer cable which is supposed to go between the speed sensor and the cable coming up from the transmission and one end of the speedometer cable has these 7/8 inch threads put that into the transmission the other one has screwed that into here and voila I still have my pickup for the cruise control and I have the speed sensor that I not only used for the intel on XK jizz but I also maybe backed off the signal wire on it to go to the ECM to let the computer know how fast that the vehicle is moving and for those of you who have done the junkyard Mopar mpfi upgrade to their deeper AMC 258 and you have not hooked up the speed sensor wire to the ECM do it it doesn’t matter how accurate you get it but that computer has to know that the vehicle is moving I went from 17 miles to the gallon up to 21 miles to per gallon with my car by hooking that up I was really surprised you really couldn’t tell but when you pulled the plugs at naught is running that rich it’s really necessary like I said I was surprised one node I’d like to make is with the fuel sender for your particular vehicle you have Ford Chrysler Jam video Universal and Stewart Warner my early AMC’s that I have are like the Ford and Chrysler except the problem is is I have 10 ohms empty and the 73 full I have successfully repaired or should I say rigged one sensor or sender by taking it apart I was able to swap the wires around so I can have it read properly

this it wasn’t for at eletronics gauge is for just a cheap old aftermarket gauge and if you’re not sure what you have in your vehicle as far as home ranges go because you may have some other manufacturer okay hopefully I’ll fall into one of these ranges here but it’s fairly simple what you do is disconnect the sender wire from your sender take an ohm reading on it when near empty and then fill up the vehicle and take reading off it again record the numbers you should find out fairly close what you are or I can call up a dealer if you have a fairly new vehicle and ask them what the send you sending unit uses for our own value most of them will have that information on their computer they can just pull it up real quick if you happen to have a vehicle that is a lot older go to the dealership and ask them if you can look at why their tech manuals tell them what you’re looking for they may even have a tech that knows it right off the top of his head