GoPro Lite | Naked GoPro (Smooth HD Video – Complete Guide!)

Good day! Here’s what we’re gonna do today. We’re gonna take this GoPro Hero 6 Black weighing 117 grams and turn it into this naked GoPro Lite weighing 25 grams and stick it on this Pygmy Rattler Cinewoop drone, process the captured HD using ReelSteady GO, and show you the final results. That’s right! This is a complete “how-to” naked GoPro Lite video tutorial! Ready to get started? Then hit that “thumbs up” button below and subscribe to your TMac FPV channel – your home for your Journey to Better FPV fun, flights, and racing stuff! All right, I got this off of Amazon. Let’s open it up and see what’s inside Nice packaging The camera comes in the mounting case. Looks like we can push it out through this This is the camera that we’re going to de-case. Let’s see what else we got in here A usb c cable, a battery (which we’ll have to charge up i’m sure), and a couple sticky mounting things We won’t need this. The only things we’ll need are the battery and usb cable to charge it up. So, I’ll put the battery in the camera and start charging. Next I’m charging up my GoPro using the usb cable so that I can downgrade its firmware to version 1.6 for better use with ReelSteady GO All right, the first thing I’m going to do is format my Sandisk U3 A1 32 gigabyte micro sd card Right click, format, using fat32. I’ll untick the quick format to do the complete one Click start. Okay All right. It’s a good thing. All right, now that my sd card has been formatted and my gopro battery has been charged, I’ve downloaded version 1.6 firmware which you can grab through a link in the video description below I’ve got this here. I want to copy this onto the sd card Right now we want to extract it. We want to “Extract to Update.” That’s done right here. So with that we can delete this There you see our three files under the “Update” folder All right, to show you what firmware version is currently on the GoPro I’ve got version 2.01 and we’re going to downgrade it to 1.6 So the first thing we’re going to do is turn off the camera I’m going to open this up. I’m going to stick the sd card in that’s got the new update folder and files on it. Then we’re going to turn the GoPro on You can see here it’s downloading the files from the sd card onto the camera and it’s actually changing the firmware from version 2.01 to 1.6 That means we’re good to go! So let’s check it out We’ll go to our “Preferences.” Now we see we’ve downgraded our version from 2.01 to 1.6. That’s a good thing All right, now we’re going to install the GoPro app to my phone so that we’ve got some way of controlling the camera since we’re going to be taking it completely apart and we won’t be able to use the screen on it anymore So let’s install this to my phone Now we can open it up Now we’re going to turn my GoPro on and connect it to the app Now it’s showing it as connected. So we want to go to “Settings.” So these are the settings I’m going to start with. Ii’ve already set them on the GoPro itself, not through the app, but directly through the GoPro camera. I’ve got the resolution at 2.7 k in 4-3 mode – and the reason I’m going with 4-3

is because when you use ReelSteady GO for processing it automatically stretches it out to the wider view I’m going with 60 frames per second because that’s the fps which is good for drone flight The field of view I’m going with “wide” which is the setting you want to have when you’re using the 4-3 mode because once again that’s what’s good for use with ReelSteady GO processing. I’ve got “Protune” on. I’m keeping my shutter speed at “Auto” but I have locked my iso to 100 by changing the iso min and the iso limit to 100. White balance I’ve got selected as “Native.” Sharpness you can go with either “Low” or “Medium.” I had it on low and it didn’t look quite right to me. So I tried medium and I personally liked that better. So, I switched it to medium For Color I’m going to use “Flat” because in post processing I’ve got better control over the colors by doing it that way. These are the rest of my settings. Here you see the version is at 1.6 Now what i want to do is I want to change the wi-fi band from 5 gigahertz (which is the band that our video transmitters operate on) to 2.4 gigahertz like that. With that, we should be good to go. All right, now that we’ve got camera settings the way we want them and we’ve confirmed that we can control the camera via the phone app, it’s time to start breaking this thing down. The first thing we need to do is remove this lens cap. Pry this up a little bit around the edges. There we go All right, the first step’s down. All right the next step is we’re going to remove this usb door right here. Like that. That was simple! Then for the next step we’re going to remove this front casing which is this rubberized casing but it’s glued on there So we’re going to have to start over here and pry a tool underneath this edge to break the glue all the way around and peel it off. All right, so now let’s get to removing this front rubber part. There’s supposedly a ribbon cable over here underneath this so we want to be careful not to break that ribbon cable otherwise it’s all she wrote Okay, here’s what I’ve got left. This was not the easiest thing to get off What I ended up doing is using a heat gun around here to get some of this . . . to heat some of this glue up and soften it up, which allowed me to pry underneath it and pull this stuff off to the best of my ability. I also used pliers which doesn’t make it any easier really Ah! There we go. See, it softens it up a little bit There we go. Oh my goodness! I think that’s all we need to take out because now we’ve got the screws exposed which is what we want to get at. Three top screws here and three bottom screws here. So that’ll be our next step. All right, now it’s time to remove these six screws. There’s three at the bottom (one, two, three) and three at the top (one, two, three). Then we can pull this front panel out of the case being careful because there’s ribbon cables over on this side I believe that we need to disconnect after we pull the panel out. So let’s go ahead and remove these screws By the way these tools that I’m using . . got them on Amazon. There’s a link to them down in the description below They’re about somewhere between five and ten bucks There’s one. I like this little screwdriver It’s really nice – makes things easy The last one All right, now we’ve got our six screws out Now we can gently try and remove this panel from the casing. Gently There we go. Now you can see down here there’s going to be some ribbon cables

that we need to detach Right here Lift that up gently, and right here Lift that up gently Those are the ribbon cables that we detached. There’s three of them Then we’ve only got one more connection that we have to undo here All right, now let’s just disconnect this wiring harness from the front plate This is just a piece of tape or something on here. It just pulls right off Then this should just pull right off like that. It was pressed on from the top so it just pops right off. All right, so far this is what we’ve got left Looking good. Now what we want to do is we want to get this board off of this panel that it’s mounted to We see obviously that there are some screws holding it on here. There’s actually four of them (one, two, three, four), but there’s also some screws underneath this usb holder So we need to take this usb connector holder off as well as those four screws in order to get to the other screws which are underneath this, in order to be able to remove the board So let’s get rid of these screws Four. All right, now in order to remove this I need to pop this up like that. It’s the ribbon cable which was plugged in there There’s this plate here which we can remove Now you see that we’ve got another screw here that we need to get rid of Oooh doggies, look at that! Now we ought to be able to just take this off here All right, I finally found the right screwdriver for this phillips screw and it is coming out now, like that Now, I think that’s all the screws that are in here There’s this piece of tape we got to get rid of here All right, I still got my sd card in there that’s funny! Now let’s see if we can just lift this off of here Pry it up maybe Oh! There it goes. All right, it turns out there’s actually another screw underneath this cable here that I didn’t see. That’s why I was having trouble getting this usb holder off. So we need to undo this screw as well There we go. That just comes right off there now That’s what we wanted. Then we can see that there’s still yet another screw down in here that we have to get out Try that. Yeah, this ribbon cable right here we just need to pop this off, like that. Now this board should just lift right off I’m thinking. Oh, we’ve gotta undo the lens ribbon cable like that. There we go. So we had two ribbon cables we need to deal with So now this board should just slide out Yes! That’s a good thing! That’s what we wanted. Outstanding! All right. The last thing we need to do is remove the lens from this front panel. The way we’re going to do that is underneath this . . . I don’t know if you can see it here or not. There’s one screw right here holding this lens into the panel. So we need to get at that screw, unscrew it, and that should be able to pop that camera lens right out of here Let’s give it a shot. Seems to be coming out all right. There it goes. It’s a very short,

wide top screw With that, we ought to be able to just pull this right out of here Let’s see what happens Sure enough! Look at that. There’s a GoPro lens Don’t need that anymore. So what we’re left with is the board, the lens, and if we want to use it, the usb connector. Let’s see how much this stuff weighs This is with the sd card which weighs nothing. 17 grams! We’re good to go! All right now before I connect the BEC board to the motherboard of the GoPro, I’ve made this pigtail connector to power the GoPro So, Iwant to solder the power and the ground leads onto the BEC board here . . . power and ground, before I make any connection between the BEC board and the motherboard, just because I don’t want to make any mistakes and burn anything out So we’re going to go ahead and solder these which I’ve already tinned onto the BEC board (which I need to tin these two pads) So, let’s go ahead and tin those I need to make sure that those two aren’t touching – that they’re not connected. They actually are. So I need to clean that up. I think that did it. They’re no longer shorted out So now I can go ahead and solder the power here, the ground over here Good stuff! All right, now what I want to do is I want to connect the BEC board to the motherboard of the GoPro The way that’s going to happen is . . I’ve got this socket here and this one over here. So this plugs in there and this plugs in here. Now what I’ve got here is version 1.1 of this BEC board The reason I point that out is it’s got these little spacer capacitors on here which the previous version of the board did not. You had to insert little spacer strips here So the latest version (as of today) of this BEC board for the Hero 6 GoPro is version 1.1. It’s got these things on it So, we’re going to go ahead and plug these sockets in Supposedly, lining this socket up is easiest to do. Well, I guess I could line up that hole right there on top and that should work Now, there it snapped in there. I felt it Then, I just felt that one snap in as well. So now those are in solidly. You can see that these holes align with the motherboard holes. So that’s a good thing. All right. So that’s how it’s looking right now and we’re ready for the next step All right, our next step is to actually retrieve the camera lens from our stack of parts that we had taken apart We want to connect this ribbon cable from the camera to the socket here. So that’s going to go right there Let’s see if we can make that happen What’s happening with these sockets is I’m able to feel the connection much more than I am visually observe it So that just might be a tip for you. Be gentle but when they actually align and connect, you can actually feel them click just a little bit. Now we’ve got our camera lens connected to the consolidated boards We’re ready for the next one All right, now that we’ve got this in place, it’s time for us to put the board inside the front portion of the case We’re gonna do that with these screws. We’ve got one four millimeter screw, two five millimeter screws, and ten eight millimeter screws. We’re gonna put five of them into the board attaching it to the front part of the case First thing we need to do is get the camera lens inside the hole and we make it flush up against there like that. Then we line the board up and that fits nicely inside the case. Now the first screw that we’re going to install is this tiny four millimeter screw. Magneto Man! I’m gonna put that right here Then we’re gonna put one of these five millimeter screws up in this corner and the other five millimeter screw over in this corner of the BEC board I’m gonna start over in this corner. We don’t want to tighten them down too much,

just make them snug. I’ll put this five millimeter screw up here Okay, now we’re going to use two of the eight millimeter screws and they’re going to go in this hole on the right side of this camera and in this hole on the left side of the camera. Just make it snug. This one goes in this hole over here That’s pretty solid in there now It’s holding it good Let’s make sure these buttons are lined up Yep. I can . . Can you hear it click? Buttons are working nice. The board’s in there nice and solid So we’ve got our board mounted inside the front part of the case. We’re on to the next step. The final thing we need to do is put the back case on We’re going to do that with six of these eight millimeter screws . . three up top (one, two, and three) and three in the bottom (one, two, three). We have to make sure the back of the camera gets inside this little pocket It fits nicely all the way around. Grab one of these What I like to do when I put these . . when I put screws into a component like this is . . .I like to . . .it’s similar to how you tighten lug nuts on a tire, alternate So, I’m going to do the top right, now I’m going to do the bottom left The reason behind doing it that way is so that one side doesn’t get over tightened and then you won’t be able to find the holes on the other side All right, those two are flush. Moving on What do you say we put one down here at the bottom? Actually let’s put it up top Head fake. All right three down, three to go. Put this bottom one in. Two more. I’m gonna do top left. You see how when I tighten that up the gap in between the front and back case closed up? So we know that’s working The last one is bottom right. See there’s a little gap there right now? Let’s see if that tightens up It sure enough does. Look at that! The buttons are working good Looking good! All right, that’s our decased or naked GoPro. Assembly complete! Now all we have to do is power it on to make sure that it works. What I’ve done with this pigtail is on all future builds that I want to use the naked GoPro on, I’ll attach the other end like that to the flight controller power supply vcc and ground It’ll take up to 4S for the BEC board. So now I’m either gonna connect this to the flight controller and check the power or i’ll just connect this to the lipo to ops check it. Let’s go to the next step – power check. All right before we do our ops power check, let’s weigh this puppy in 25 grams, good stuff! All right, for our power check, I’ve decided to go ahead and connect the other end of the pigtail of the power lead to the flight controller. I just connected those two leads to bat plus and bat minus (the lipo positive and negative pads) of the flight controller. Then I just connected that lead to the other end of the lead coming from the GoPro Here’s what she looks like all assembled. Looks pretty good So now we’re just gonna power check it and we’ll be all done I’ll set it like this so that you might be able to see the lights on the back of the camera should it happen to work properly! We have two buttons – the button on the left is the power on and off button and the button on the right is the record start and stop button The way it’s supposed to work is power on the camera, then you press this button to start recording. To stop recording, you press this button again. Then to power off the camera you long press this button. All right, let’s power on and see if she works Power on Record It’s recording, that’s a good thing We stopped recording Excellent! Mission complete! Power down. Naked GoPro Lite! We’re good to go! All right, I just got back from my flight I was battling about 25 to 30 mile per hour steady winds! I’ve removed the sd card from the naked GoPro and I’ve inserted it into a usb adapter and plugged it into my computer. Ii’m going to process it with ReelSteady

GO. In order to do that, obviously you need to purchase it, download it and install it As of today, it’s on sale for $69 – a discount of 30% off. You can find a link for ReelSteady GO in the video description below. All right, when you open up your ReelSteady GO software application, this is what you see. Yyou’ll have two choices here: load video or save video. This is what’s used to export the video once it’s stabilized. So, at this point we’re going to load the flight video from the folder I put it in after grabbing it from the sd card of the GoPro. Here’s my flight video Double click on that It says “Running the numbers.” This does take a few minutes All right, once it’s done running the numbers, it creates these little key frames down here where it synchronized the video and the gyro data You can actually modify these by left clicking on them and adjusting them or deleting them. You can also click at a certain spot in the video that you want to synchronize the video with the gyro data and create another keyframe. To do so, (if you’re going to change these), what I recommend doing is finding a place in the video where you’re doing somewhat of straight and level flight to make it easier on ReelSteady GO to synchronize the data So, let’s go back over here and see what part of the flight this keyframe is on Here I know I’m flying and the wind’s blowing from left to right as you’re viewing it on the screen at a fairly hard and steady pace What I want to do is, I want to find a place in the video where I’m flying somewhat straight and level like right here’s a good spot – where I’m going with the wind through this pavilion. So, I’m going to add a keyframe here Then, I’m going to delete this one Now over here in the bottom right corner, you have this tool icon. We click on that and it automatically defaults to linking the cropping speed with the smoothness. Up here you’ve got smoothness and cropping speed You can lock the horizon or do time lapse with smoothness They’re both locked in together as normal. For this particular case, I’m going to leave it centered at normal, but what you can do is if you’re flying smooth, slow, cinematic video you can uncheck that, drag smoothness down here (somewhere in between low and normal) and move your cropping speed somewhere in between normal and slow. That would be for some smooth, slow, cinematic flight. If you’re going to do some fast freestyle type flight and you want to grab some HDGoPro footage, then what you might want to do is keep these linked and then move both of them together down here so that your cropping speed is actually faster than normal. For now we’re going to leave everything at normal and hit okay. Now we’re going to click “Save Video,” which is going to actually crunch the numbers and export the video. Rendering. We’ll come back when it’s done All right, rendering has finished and it states that the rendered movie is saved as the original file name of the video clip underscore smoothed. So, at this point we can close out ReelSteady GO and the saved file should be in the same location as the original file which we uploaded Here it is right here. In just a minute I’m going to show you the final flight video. Real quick before I do that, I just wanted to mention that on my Pygmy Rattler this flight was captured using an ND16 filter from BetaFPV which you can grab through a link in the video description below. Shipping to the east coast of U.S. from BetaFPV took approximately two to three weeks. Or, I’ve also discovered the Moment Mavic 2 Zoom ND filters also fit the BetaFPV version 2 case which you can see on my Pygmy Rattler here. They come in a variety of filters such as the ND8, the ND4, and the ND32. Shipping might be a little bit quicker. I’ve got these available through links in my video description below as well Alright, I’ll close with a finalized flight video. Let me know what you think of the naked GoPro Lite and ReelSteady GO processing I’ll see in the next video. Until then, enjoy the flight and clear skies friend!