How To Restore Shine To Fiberglass Boat Gelcoat [🌟WEBINAR🌟] | BoatUS

Alright, let’s get started now. What exactly is Gelcoat? Well it’s a type of fiberglass resin right, and it’s sprayed into a mold in a boat building plant and it takes on the shape and the texture of the mold in the factory, now that’s why it’s really important that manufacturers keep those molds in pristine condition otherwise we won’t end up with a beautiful boat like that So let’s take a look at a mold itself You can see how shiny it is right, and it’s perfectly clean, now if you walked into a boat builders plant you would hope not to see that you would actually hope that that would be covered with a piece of plastic so no dust would get in there because when that gelcoat gets sprayed in, if there’s any dust in there that that will absolutely get into the gelcoat, but that’s what that perfectly clean mold looks like. Now here’s the thing, that gelcoat. when it hardens it’s softer and more porous than most other fiberglass resins, that means it’s subject to oxidation. Now oxidation is what makes your gelcoat looked chalky and dull and old and there’s a there’s a picture of a boat that has not been properly maintained and you can see how chalky and dull and old that gelcoat looks. Now what is oxidation? How does this happen? Well it’s no different than when you slice an apple and it quickly turns brown for that matter it’s no different than when a piece of metal rusts Essentially it is electrons escaping from that material, from the physical item, and going to oxygen, so when this occurs you know with metal you get a about powdery orange rust, right, that’s that’s basically just metal without some electrons. In gelcoat it doesn’t turn orange it doesn’t get powdery but you do get that chalky dull look and that is actually in the gelcoat at that point Now it can be taken out, okay don’t freak out if you’ve already got chalky gelcoat, you can fix it but it takes a lot of time and elbow grease. You basically have to grind it away with an oxidation remover which has you know some abrasives of it and if you do it too many times eventually you can wear right through the gelcoat, so we don’t want to get there. Today we’re going to talk about how to prevent ever getting there Okay, ready for step number one? Here is step number one. First and most important, at least twice a season you need to wax your boat thoroughly with two coats of wax. Now when I talk about putting on two coats of wax I’m not talking about the liquid wax or the spray-on wax or the wash and wax or any of that stuff we’re going to talk about that later but this is your protective barrier that stuff does not give your gel coat protection You need to use a thick paste wax, it’s imperative that it be a thick paste wax, now you know before we get into the specifics of different waxes I want to mention that we used to say these waxes you wanted one that was based on the beeswax not a carnuba everybody sees carnuba and all the point all the packaging for everything because that’s kind of a buzzword it’s a great marketing term. Carnuba makes a boat shine but it really doesn’t protect so really the key difference to look for these days is just to make sure it’s a paste not a liquid usually liquids roll full of carnauba. So one of our favorites is Collinite fleet wax, it’s a really good one it’s really thick and it takes a lot of work to put it on and get it off but you know that’s the price you pay for the protection another one we really like is 3M paste wax again this stuff is really thick; is a little difficult to deal with, and in both of these cases with both of these space wax, any paste wax, you’re going to have to apply it by hand. This is not something you can rub them with a buffer. You want to use a circular motion make sure you cover every little inch of the gelcoat and again you want to do two coats. Now here’s the good news, even though you have to apply a thick paste wax with elbow grease, old-fashioned elbow grease, after it dries you can take it off with a buffer with a soft bonnet that’s no problem. So why are we doing all this? Well the wax fills in the pores in the gelcoat, that protects it from sunlight, UV rays, protection from oxygen, creates a barrier and prevents that oxidation, and it also prevents things like water lines and fish blood if you’re an angler It prevents them from staining the gelcoat Now here’s another bonus once you have a couple coats of really thick paste wax on your boat it gets to be much easier to clean it up If you pull into a let’s say you have a trailer but you pull into a boat ramp and you pull the boat out and it’s got that scum line along the bottom, if it’s a thoroughly waxed gelcoat hull, it’ll be really easy it’ll come right off with a soft brush, it’ll be no problem. If you have a hole that hasn’t been waxed in a year or two that stuff will really stick on there and you’ll be scrubbing. Alright so step two step… one is a thick paste

wax, step two: now we’re going to talk about the liquid wax. Now here’s the thing about the liquid wax, they’re much easier to use much faster and in fact we’re going to watch a quick little video of a BoatUS editor named Mark Cork doing some liquid wax application It was playing a little herky-jerky but you get the picture. Here’s the deal, Mark is simply squirting it onto his application pad and then doing a circular pattern, remember earlier we talked about of the paste wax to a circular pattern, now with liquid wax if you want to do this with a buffer, that’s fine. One important tip never drip the liquid onto the buffer and then press the start button before you’re leaning against the gelcoat because that buffer will shoot liquid wax all over the place it makes quite a mess Once you’ve got it on there, can remove it with a buffering remover by hand, either way is just fine. What you need to remember about this liquid wax is that it’s really only good for a couple weeks okay it offers you another layer of protection but after a couple of weeks of rain and wind and sunshine and stuff pretty much goes away, that’s why we don’t want to use a liquid wax for a base coat, if we did that by the time June rolled around there just be no wax left on the gelcoat. So you got your thick paste wax then you got your liquid wax. Now here’s one we really like: McGuiar’s that’s a really good wax, goes on nice and easy, comes off nice and easy, gives you a couple weeks to protect it Let’s see, another one that we like is Flitz Speed wax, this is another wax that you know on, comes off nice and easy, it gives you a couple weeks of protection, and my favorite is actually something called Eagle One wax as you dry. Now here’s what I love it so much, first off you just spray it on and wipe it off you have to wait for it to dry Even better this stuff can be used on a wet surface so if you wash down your boat at the end of the day you don’t have to wait 20 minutes for to get completely dry, you don’t have to shammy it you can just take this stuff and go right on down the hall and it really makes a luscious shine. Now let’s take another look at a video, Mike can we get up to the video of Mark Cork when he is removing the wax. Mark as he is using a buffer to remove the wax which really saves a ton of time. If you have a buffer, you do want to use it particularly for removing the wax whatever type you’re doing. See how he just runs up and down along the hull side and the wax comes right off he’s got a pretty serious heavy-duty buffer right there. You don’t have to have you know world’s greatest buffer you can buy a inexpensive orbital at West Marine or somewhere like that for you know $50- $60 and it will turn the half-hour to 45-minute job of getting all that wax off into a 15 – 20 minute job. Important reminder make sure you always have a clean bonnet, the bonnet will clog up with that wax so you want to make sure that you change it up then a lot of times you can take it off just shake it real hard You’ll see the dust cloud of all the wax come off then put it back on and you know, just keep cleaning it up, cleaning it off often because it will get clogged up with that wax. When you give it a wash if you use a soap that has some wax in it that will give it a third layer of protection, it’s a very minor league layer, we’re talking days not weeks here, but it does give a little bit of protection and it gives it that really beautiful shine that bell-ringing shine. West Marine wash and shine is one product we like for that, leaves it leaves you with a nice shine at the end of the day same goes for OrPine wash and wax this stuff is also it has some perfume in it so scented it smells nice and smells piney. Same goes for Star Brite. Power Pine, that’s another one I love to use this stuff – the boat even smells fresh and clean, you give your boat tons and tons of protection, it is really the right way to go. Now we put up this poll question on whether or not your boat is kept in direct sunlight because this is not one of our three steps to maintain your gelcoat, but it is still a really important part of whether or not your gel coat weathers quickly and how good it looks. If you have the ability to shield your boat from the Sun that’s a really really good thing. That will really help keep your gelcoat in better shape. Now if you can’t if you can’t get it out of the Sun you can invest in a tight fitting cover, and this is very important, I wanted to bring this out, this is this is a great thing to talk about because, here’s the deal, a loose fitting cover is worse than no cover. Now this cover will tighten down tightly but as Mike said, it’s loose in this picture, well here’s the deal. The wind blows

against that cover, that covered back and forth back and forth back and forth, it constantly rubs against your gelcoat, it constantly rubs against your outboard cowling and over time it will act like sandpaper and this will actually do more damage to your gelcoat than just leaving it in the Sun. The quintessential blue tarp that you drape over your boat and tie at the bottom it’s virtually impossible to get those things really tightened down and you hear it rustling in the wind, right you know I’m talking about, you’ve walked through the boat yards, you’ve heard this (russling sounds) that the cover makes when it russles in the wind. That is rubbing against the boat constantly In the long term that can do real damage Years ago I had a .. it was a Twin Vee 19 with a 140 Suzuki on it and I babied that boat and I kept it looking perfect, and one year my cover had ripped and I had to replace it but I have time to replace it before the first snow is going to come so I ran out I got a blue tarp and I put it over the boat and the wind blew and, you know, it rubbed the black off the corners of my outboard I was so upset with myself. I was livid at myself, but you know what happened so you got to be careful about that. Now another thing you can do is obviously, if you have a garage or carport, and you have a trailer boat you can park it in the garage or carport. Now I’m just going to say if there’s anybody out there who currently has a trailer boat parked on the street and currently has a car parked in the carport with a garage you’ve got your priorities screwed up Put that car out there on the street where belongs please and put your boat inside under the carport where it belongs One more thing I want to mention here, and not everyone can do this, but if you have the ability to keep your boat in a boathouse or a dry stack that’s actually pretty good too. At first dry stacks I never really liked the idea of having my boat out of the water sitting in a rack, but a lot of them are covered and actually in the long term pretty good for the boat. Now I want to talk about a few things you got to be careful of that will really damage your gelcoat if you’re not careful. Here’s one of them, this marina, now I used to have one in this marina and it was moored all the way over towards the bridge and every time I came down to the boat was covered with these tiny little black dots took me a couple weeks to figure it out well it was coming from all the traffic on a bridge and it was just raining down on my boat That is exhaust, that is soot, never moor your boat under a bridge or even near a bridge I actually got them to move me to the other side of the marina and then I still got these black dots on there but it only happened when we had a southeast wind and it actually blew the exhaust over onto the boat. So you know, be careful about where you moor your boat. Now, if you have a trailer boat and it’s kept near a busy highway you’re gonna have the same issue, right, not every day but when the wind blows in the right direction you’re going to have the same issue. Years ago I discovered the same thing can happen when you’re near industrial areas when I was a kid we had a boat on Back Creek, up near Baltimore, and of course back then Bethlehem Steel was in operation and whenever the wind blew the right way, I think it was a southeast, whenever we had a southeast wind we get out of the boat on the weekend and there’d be all these little teeny tiny orange dots all over the boat it was crap coming out of the steelworks so if you’re near an industrial area again there’s going to be a problem, if any of this stuff gets on your boat on your gelcoat, immediately rinse it off This is at my house and the first boat: that’s Everglades 243 I wish that was my boat, it wasn’t, I had it for a test for a little while but behind it you can see that Glacier Bay 22 back there and I don’t know if you can tell in the picture but it’s right next to a mulch bed just to the left and the picture there is a mulch bed along the ground I was getting all these tiny little black dots it’s kind of like tar on my boat. I thought man I must be getting tar off the road when I trailer back and forth to the ramp but that wasn’t it because I come home I wash my boat down real good maybe I give it a wax job and look beautiful in the next weekend I’d walk out and I go wait a minute, where are all these little black tar-like dots coming from and I started researching this discovered there is this wacky thing called artillery fungus and when it releases its spores they go everywhere within about 20 feet and they live in mulch beds so if you’ve ever found all these tiny little black tar-like dots all over your boat or maybe your house or your car you know what the heck it is and you’ve got a mulch bed right there, that is artillary fungus Crazy, huh? Now what can you do about this? Well actually a good wash down will get down to get off about 80% of those little black dots the rest you got to go to the thumbnail method. Once you get rid of them I hate to say it but the only way to truly get rid of artillery fungus is

to actually get rid of all your mulch and use pine bark mulch that doesn’t mean you’ll never get it again, but it is much more resistant to artillery spores All right so that’s about it for storing your boat, now let’s talk a little bit about the actual process of cleaning your boat because this is this is an area here where some people mess up I’m not going to spend a whole lot of time dwelling on it, you know how to scrub a boat. Here’s the main thing to remember that stiff bristle brush don’t use that on your chalk no no no that stiff bristle brush is for your non-skid. When you’re doing your gelcoat, use a soft bristle brush It should be soft, it should be flexible, be gentle, right because that’s stiff brush – that will rub off the wax. If you use it on outboard cowl that will actually make micro scratches in the outboard cowl. Now personally when I’m doing a cowl, I don’t even trust the softy brush, what I like to use is a microfiber cloth, these are the really super super soft ones. Alright there’s one more thing we need to address, and that’s another common stain that gets into your gelcoat that you have to attack in a completely different manner and it’s rust stains. Rust cannot be scrubbed out, right? Doesn’t work You’ve probably been there, you got that orange streak going down the side of your boat right behind a through-hole fitting you sit there and scrub scrub scrub, you just scrub for there for three days. You’re not going to get all out of there what you need is an acid-based cleaner. Most of the cleaners designed to attack those rust streaks are based on oxalic acid. This is one I really like Davis FSR it’s a jelly and you spread that jelly on the rust stain and you just stand back and wait and 5 – 10 – 15 minutes later this thing’s just gone. I can’t tell you I know exactly how this stuff works, but it works now a couple things: A) you don’t want to breathe in the fumes from it and B) you got to be wearing rubber gloves because that stuff will burn your skin if it gets on it. It is real life acid Another really good one is MaryKate On & Off. Again, don’t breathe this stuff in, only use it outdoors for sure, I wouldn’t even use that in my garage, and another really important thing is if you have a boat one a trailer or even just if your boat has a metal through-hole and any of the stuff gets on it, this stuff, these acids, will burn away metal You got to be really careful to super super super rinse off everything after using this stuff. If you get it all over your trailer it’ll eat it away in a season, so tons of fresh water afterwards, rinse it all away and are you’re ready for the good news? After you get done using this stuff well you’ve also burned away all the wax so guess what? You can start the whole process all over again And we’re ready to field questions if anybody has any questions we can talk about brands, we can talk about different cleaning systems, boat washes, how to address non skit in particular, any of this stuff non-skid mixes up a lot of people, right, yeah, that’s a toughy and actually the best thing that I found to deal with non-skid is actually a power wash it gently, gently, you don’t want like a 5000 psi power wash or anything, but you want to gently hit it with a power wash and that will get everything off of there and now if you go back and wax it now you need to do this to seal it right but if you go back and wax it it becomes an ice skating rink, you’ve been there right? So there is a specific wax, it will come in a brown bottle, look for the brown bottle, if you ask your guy at West marine or if you google it wax for non-skid it will pop right up I guarantee you there’s only one kind of ever come across, but it’s pretty well known and that stuff will keep your non-skid from being being slippery. (Question from the audience) “I have a question, when do you apply polish?” Yeah, so after you’ve gone through your waxing process you can use a polish now it will give you some to shine it won’t give you a ton more protection but it will give you some extra shine. You have to be careful you want to read the instructions on the polishes because there are some that don’t go well with wax actually you probably remove a good bit of the wax when you apply polish. Others are just fine with going right over top so you do want to read carefully on the label and figure out which you want to go with, now some of the polish systems, I’m calling them systems because a lot of the manufacturers have you know stage 1 stage 2 like that. Some of them more or less replace wax, they seal the gelcoat pores and they also have like a secondary or tertiary coating that gives you extra shine. You know, I’m fine with using those just as long as you constantly monitor the finisher gelcoat to make sure it’s not getting the oxidation in it I’ve always personally felt like the thick paste wax, liquid wax, and then wash and wax regime – you know it’s just my opinion – I think it does the best I have tried polishes I have used

polishes for a number of years in some different cases and I’ve been very happy with some of them I don’t want to knock them, so to a certain degree it is personal preference. The important thing is to make sure that you don’t mix and match the two if they’re two that are not meant to be mixed and matched Oh isn’t that pretty bit that was coming in the Ocean City inlet last year and I had to put that picture in there just because it is so gorgeous and one of the things I noticed the mate one that though he was washing that boat down from the moment they came through the inlet The instant they could get the salt all for that beautiful machine they were doing, you know they obviously they carry plenty of fresh water on that boat and they can do that, not all of us can do that, but you know again it just goes right back to that you know staying on top of maintenance, immediately getting all the salt off your boat, rinsing it away gobs and gobs of fresh water best thing in the world you do for your boat Do we have any more questions Mike? Okay, we could get another question, “I have my boat waxed at the beginning of the season and at the end of the season. Is that efficient?” When it comes to the spray ones like I was saying earlier that Eagle One wax as you dry I really like that one especially because the boat doesn’t have to be completely dry you know with a lot of the spray-on waxes if you don’t go around and shammy that boat or allow it to sit and sundry for a good amount of time, that will actually take, you know the water breaks it all up it’s no good But that wax as you dry, that stuff you can spray on you can go that’s a relatively new product if I remember it came out two years ago and I’ve have gotten more of it since I originally tested it and I keep playing that stuff on hand I really like it. Alright, another question, “Can you the same process for stainless steel bimini?” Oh, now that’s a good question! Wax actually does help stainless steel bimini frames however there are metal polishes and metal protectants that are made specifically for the metals, you know I can’t tell you I know the physical properties, the physical differences, between those products. What I do know is, I have a friend who works at Star Brite, I’ve known him for many many years and of course they have a whole lot of cleaning products, and I know that they actually invest an awful lot of time and effort into research and development and making sure that the products actually do what they want them to do actually work as best they possibly can. They have chemists that sit there and you know they change molecules around, and they make this stuff as good as they absolutely positively can personally can. Personally on my boat the only stainless I have is going to be in the rails I do wax them when I wax the rest of the boat, but when I’m when I’m ready to spend some time really making the boat right, I break out the metal polish and that’s what I use there. I also use it on my steering wheel and a few other select stainless parts, but if you really want to do is what’s right for your boat I’m going to say you’re going to go to the actual steel polishes and protectants instead of just using wax on there, right? Don’t get me wrong, I think wax is a good thing, but if you really want to go the extra mile and you really want to keep it in good shape you know metal polish is probably better bet There are guys who spend their entire careers just figuring out how to make this stuff work better so. “Alright, here’s a great question. Does washing with soap remove the wax?” Oh, does washing with soap remove the wax? That is a great one, you know, a little bit yeah, that’s one of the reasons why I keep saying you got to you know regularly add back that liquid wax and, you know, use the spray wax because if you’re washing it down with soap that’s the layer, that’s the stuff that will remove, it won’t get to that heavy paste wax coat right? – because that’s got some protection. I don’t think one washing will remove all that liquid wax either, you talking two, three washings, a rainstorm, and a week of Sun, a couple weeks of Sun. So it’s not an immediate thing but yeah now more important here is to remember what I said earlier about the stiffy brush okay, if you’re scrubbing, I don’t care what kind of soap you have, if you’re scrubbing with a stiffy brush and you’re scrubbing on gelcoat you’re going to rip that wax off. It’s not even the soap so much as it is just the friction, the physical force, those sniffy brushes absolutely positively will rub that wax away it absolutely positively will cause little tiny micro scratches It’s especially imperative to remember this when it comes to uoutboat cowls because those essentially have the same type of a finish as your car you wouldn’t take a stiffy brush to your car right it would make these tiny little scratches that might not even be visible so much with a naked eye but when you stand back and look at the car that sheen is just gone. Right, that’s what happens you do an outboard cowl with

your sniffy brush you get the same thing You do the gelcoat going down your hull sides week after week after week for a season you’re going to have the same thing on top of the fact it removed all your wax and now your gelcoats oxidizing okay outboard cowl absolutely, out drive absolutely, again you’re looking at paint finishes particularly on your outboard cowl, your paint finish is very similar to a car finish, it needs that wax it really does God forbid if you’re a fisherman and you get fish blood on an outboard cowl and it doesn’t have a nice thick coat of wax on top you’re in trouble you have a really hard time getting that off without damaging that finish. Now with the lower unit is a much rugged paint it’s finished you know in a much more rugged fashion but you still do want to wax it and here’s an important reason why you’ve probably noticed through the years that that that drive unit will get water lines on it right if you pull your boat out at the ramp it will have a nasty water line on it if you tilt it up and you leave your boat in the water it may get water lines in areas that touch the water at times what the wax on that paint will do and I’m worried more here about about this than I am about longevity because I DEP DEP that paint is not really exposed to the Sun quite so much it’s not good and it’s much more rugged but here’s the thing all that all that stuff the water lines that growth everything that gets on there will come off a heck of a lot easier if you’ve given it a thick coat of wax so you know if you don’t wax it and you pull your bed out of the trailer and then you trailer home and let’s it take you a half an hour so everything is thoroughly dry and you’ve got that water line on there that water line you’re gonna have to take a brush to it your F take soap to it you’re gonna scrub scrub scrub scrub and it will come off it’ll be a little bit of a pain in the butt right on the other hand if you have thoroughly waxed that outdrive unit and you get home you’re probably going to take your hose and go and the vast majority that stuff will come right off maybe a little swipe with a brush get the rest of it off you’ll be looking good okay Lauren send us a question um what products you recommend for whole street and for sums to me oh man that’s a toughy that’s a toughy I’ve been fighting this battle for years you know there are all kinds of vinyl protectant out there and I gotta say hearts I’m sorry I can’t be much help my honest answer is they all seem to be about the same I really have never incant encountered a standout if that said pretty much all of those vinyl cleaners once mildew gets into that vinyl that ain’t coming out it’s really tough to get it out the most important thing you can do is wash down your vinyl with soap every time you use your boat if you use your boat for a week tattoo it wash it off and if you constantly keep it clean that does help keep those mildew spots out but and once they’re in there I’ve only found one thing that will actually take them out ready for this the final people the final people are going to hate me for saying this bleach yeah it was right bleach we’ll get it out and within a season or two your vinyl will be totally trashed bleach will kill it and I’ve gone down this road when the mildew has gotten so bad and the vinyl is already kind of on its last legs I mean this stuff does have a limited lifetime you know if you get ten years out of vinyl cushions you’re doing good in some places you know five years is more like it so when it’s getting to be old and cruddy and it’s not looking so great that’s the tie to break out the bleach you can stretch it for one more season by giving it a really good cleaning with bleach and that it looks pretty but you got it you got to understand you got to recognize it at the end of that season that vinyl is going to be crackly it’s going to be coming apart and you’re going to have to have it completely replaced you know when when you get to the point where you need to replace it you can kind of buy yourself one more season that way but and beyond that vinyl is a toughy it’s a limited lifespan and I can’t say I’ve ever found any single product that really does any better than all those kind of general vinyl cleaners so Charles coming into complete question and the question is you suggest waxing below the work waxing below the waterline that’s an interesting question if you have the ability to absolutely a lot of people can’t do that obviously and if you have both that’s kept in the water and you’ve got bottom paint on it well then heck now right some people think that wax will make your boat go faster that’s generally not really so true the guys that are really into getting their boats to go fast actually what they call it blue printing actually blue print the bottom they share it they make it uber super duper smooth before they wax it just waxing it and of itself you know I’d be surprised if you gave more than

half a mile an hour five five up-up-up-up buy it again it will make it really easier to clean the bottom of the boat and it will help prevent that oxidation now this is the first time I want you to notice the first time I reversed oxidation with make it easier to clean I always say first protect oxidation then it’s easier to clean because I’m working in order of importance here right so why do I flip that around where we’re going to the hull bottom well very simple reason the hull bottom is not exposed to sunlight in the same way that the hull sides and the top sides are right it just takes a lot less of a beating whether the boats want a trailer or a lift or wherever it may be so I consider it a little less imperative just a little less imperative from a maintenance standpoint but still a good thing to do and again really helps you clean the bottom of that yellow stain you had on your vote Mike that would’ve been a lot easier to clean up you wouldn’t have to go to the acid if you had two layers of wax on there what do you recommend you’re a little bit slime is bottom more so what so that’s actually a toughy that is a number one you have to pull the boat to do this right and number two those acid based cleaners are about the only thing that will totally remove all that staining just to slime itself you can usually lean over the side of the boat get pretty good with a with a scrub brush soft scrub brush right on the whole side but for the actual you know stain march that it leaves behind because that stuff always leaves a stain in there that you got to go to that acid base cleaner we mentioned the two earlier the Davis FS r was one and the mary-kate one off was the other both of those will totally remove those stains pretty darn rapidly do you recommend using rubbing compound rubbing compound great question okay so the easy answer is no the long answer is if your boat already has some oxidation in it or has some serious staining you’re going to have to write that’s the only way to get that stuff off oxidation remover and rubbing compound are really very close to the same thing the rubbing compound usually is a little a little more rugged right it’ll help you get off something that you know a specific stain a specific item but you know if you have to go to that stuff you may be at the stage where you’re going to have to use a some kind of abrasive cleaner one the entire boat if if the boat is chalky if it’s got oxidation that absolutely is when you’re going to have to go through the whole boat with that stuff now you want to bear in mind let’s say you don’t have to do a whole book but you got one spot we’ve got to use rubbing compound well you got to remember everywhere around there needs to be relaxed because that rubbing compound removes every molecule of Wax okay it’s pretty abrasive stuff so that’s all we have time for today I’d like to thank Lenny rude oh and thanks to you two for checking out this webinar please visit boat us comm for more information tips and techniques on how to care for your boat goodbye