– Hi, I’m Davin Reckow with Hagerty, and I’m the dirty hands behind all the Redline Rebuilds – I’m Ben Woodworth, also with Hagerty, and I am the guy behind the camera for all these And yeah, we’re here today to dissect and go through out Ford 289 Redline Rebuild – Here we go – All right – Look at that clean shop floor, huh? – [Ben] The shop So what do we have here? – Sweet, so here we have a 1964 by casting number Fairlane 289 Ford engine If you’re a Chevy guy, it looks like it’s all built backwards because the oil pan, the pick up is in the front of the motor instead of the back Of course, the exhaust manifolds are on correctly going out the back, but the distributor hangs out the front But, for all intents and purposes, this is an original motor It came out of a garage that had been sittin’ for quite awhile It’s actually not too horrible on the outside But, it’s definitely been leaking some oil and has some time on it So, it’s ready for some freshening – Just some details here It’s grimy, it’s rusty Okay, so getting started here Oh, shiny new engine stand – Yeah, we got blessed with a brand new engine stand – [Ben] Okay so, break down is typically pretty straightforward I mean you’re just unbolting everything – Yep, basically just unbolt everything Start at the top, down, and pull the tin work out of the way and so on and so forth – Well, is there anything you’re looking for as you break down the stuff? We basically know we’re doing, obviously we’re going into this knowing we’re doing a full tear down But, like what stuff are you making note of? – Well for instance, if you were going to be reusing the valve covers, you know I’d be looking for rust holes in them, that type of thing Those are actually in excellent condition being new old stock on there And, then after that, you know I’d be looking at the intake manifold, making sure that there’s no cracks, no huge warps in it Look at the threads, inspect them as far as being stripped out And, then once you get that off, you start to really see the tale of how this was cared for That nasty sludge build up that’s in there is, in my mind, a lot of heat cycles and a lot of no oil changes So the oil ran a little longer than it should, and the motor was warm quite a few times I would say It doesn’t appear to have an issue like with the head gasket because then that oil would be more of I call it a coffee color ’cause I like cream in my coffee But, it would be real brown and frothy – And, that would be from the coolant getting into it – That’d be from the coolant mixing in, yeah – [Ben] At this point when you’re tearing it down, there’s nothing catastrophic about it You’re not thinking about like oh man, – [Davin] No – [Ben] this thing threw a rod, or anything like that This is just an engine out of a wrecked car that’s been sitting for 30 years – Yep, but as I go through it, I like to put together a list of all the pieces I’m gonna change or need knew, you know like a new crank bolt, like a new water pump, you know name it, fresh rocker studs (Ben laughing) Yeah, that’s, like I said, very ugly – Yeah, that is I mean even when we took it to Thirlby to have them clean it They were at it for awhile with the scraper – Yeah, and they like to scrape stuff off before they fill their parts cleaner full of the gook, get the big stuff off I don’t blame ’em for that – [Ben] So we knew going into this this was going to be an upgraded engine What do we know? I mean the whole point of this Kind of walk me through – [Davin] Yeah, so what we knew is this was just the run of the mill 289, two barrel cast iron intake, you know the low power version of that I don’t want to call it mundane because it’s still a V8, and it’s still snappy But, we wanted to go with more a build to the Cobra Shelby type spec, you know the next upgrade which would take this from, what ballpark about 260 horse roughly up to in the 310s, 310 zone – [Ben] So this is Ford’s version of the like the Chevy smaller, the 350 small block – Yeah, this is Ford’s small block, 289 cubic inches It’s a four inch bore And, in that four inch bore, it’s the same as a 350 at that point It just has a shorter stroke, so it likes to rev quicker which is a benefit in certain aspects – [Ben] With this being a 289, it went into a lot
of cars in the mid ’60s – Yes, it went into everything I mean the big pieces it would go into would be a Fairlane as a for instance Of course it was in the Mercurys as well, Mercury versions But, you did have the Ford Falcons that got the upgrade You had in your especially your lightweight packages And, then the onset was into the Mustangs So this particular motor is what they refer to as the early or the five bolt engine It only has literally five bolts across the back where the bell housing attaches to it for the transmission In ’65, they changed it to six bolt I’m assuming they realized that it wasn’t quite strong enough They were having some issues And, doing that though, the package also got a little bit wider in the backside of it as far as the transmission So this smaller, narrower package, you know fits nicely in some of the littler cars And, then also keep in mind that Ford from an overall packaging standpoint, this motor is quite narrow And, part of the reason it was able to go in in such a versatility of cars is your Falcons and your Mustangs were all shock tower cars And, when you do the shock towers, that engine bay gets really narrow The hoods might be just as big as anything else, but the shock tower, the package area is really narrow So it really limited it But, this motor is narrow, so it helped you know fit that V8 into those cars – So even with the performance upgrades, you’re still at a narrow width So you can do those upgrades without having to worry about making room under the hood – Correct, yep – [Ben] Continuing on with the disassembly, walk me through kind of – Yeah so here just basically took off the exhaust manifold and then take all the head bolts out There’s been some discussion relative to none of the head bolts come out They all break I honestly have not had that issue, but I can certainly see where it could be a problem But, that would be with any engine It wouldn’t be specific to this particular one And, you can see it is grimy In fact, it’s really interesting There was actually a little chunk of nail and a piece of wood in the intake area So I’m not sure how that got there (Ben laughing) – Interesting – It is so grimy The reason I have a pair of pliers that’ll grab on the inside And, what I’m doing here is I actually have to pull those lifters out and ultimately tap them out of the holes because there’s so much varnish build up because the block has a casting piece, let’s call it an inch of a bore Well, the lifter hangs on the topside and on the bottom side Well it hangs more to the bottom, and what’ll happen is you’ll get varnish built up from the oil on the bottom side, but they have to come out that way Well, you have to get it past that, so you gotta break off gunk if you will, to get it out So it’s just flat out a dirty engine That’s what happens – And, you’re not reusing these lifters? – No No, we’re gonna replace the hydraulic camshaft with a solid lifter camshaft for that bump in horsepower – [Ben] Off comes the oil pan Anything under here that you were worried about? – [Davin] No, I didn’t see anything that was surprising here I mean when you start getting into this area as you’re pulling the rods off, you’re looking at the rod bearings, not so much that you’re going to reuse ’em by any means, but you’re looking at it to see what kind of wear they’re in They were pretty well wore, but thankfully we caught this motor to some extent before it started damaging the crank meaning you had to really cut it, you know make some big cuts to it Because as those bearings wear, they start to hammer on the steal part of the crankshaft The bearings are the wear item The crankshaft should not be, and likewise with rod ends So you know you want to maintain that engine before that bearing starts to get so bad And, there’s no grooves wore or none of that So we were actually able to, as we’ll see, able to get away with just a polish, you know to things – So this one spun unlike our hemi which was locked up to the last piston You didn’t have any problems getting these pistons out? – Yeah, this one spun fairly well, but we did have to knock em that last little ridge ’cause they had a ridge of carbon Not so much wear in the bore, but carbon So we had to knock these out (laughing) I love how they jump back in – [Ben] Obviously not reusing the pistons otherwise they wouldn’t be treated so – [Davin] No, exactly – [Ben] To a drop onto the floor – [Davin] And, with any engine disassembly, make sure that it is very specific when you put the main caps back in, likewise with the rods as far as the caps for them But, the rods have to go back in the same hole, and the caps have to go back on the same rod obviously But, then the caps also have to go in the same spot in the mains and face the same direction
– Oh okay – So you want to make sure before you pull them off that they’re marked in some fashion that you can repeat the assembly So specifically, I forget on this one if it had an arrow, but lots of times it’ll have an arrow, or a dot, or something that says forward more or less And, then these are actually cast in you know one, two, three, four They usually don’t label it in the manual They go on one way – [Ben] Right, and then as far as all the rods go, you usually use a tap – [Davin] Yep I got a number punch, cheap little number punch that you use just to tap ’em one through eight – [Ben] All right, out goes the crankshaft, out goes the camshaft And, that’s not being reused right? ‘Cause we’re going to a more aggressive cam – That’s the first camshaft, even the hemi, I didn’t have to, but that’s the first camshaft I had to physically beat out of the block because, again, the grime on the block, or on the cam was so bad it did not want to slip through It would rotate It would rotate all day long, but it would not come out of the bearings – Just those little built up ridges of things – Yep, exactly – All right, so here we go You’ve messed with them trying to pull them out, but they weren’t coming, so – Yep, so just push ’em back in the hole (Ben laughing) and drop ’em out the bottom – Nice, all right Down to the block – Yep, so block is done, now we’re onto the heads And, just basically I’m using a hammer there to tap the keepers out of the retainers They tend to seat themselves anyway And, you can see obviously they’re equally as grimy and grungy as the rest of the motor – [Ben] I would say not quite as messy as the hemi but still pretty grimy – [Davin] Yep – [Ben] I love seeing all the parts on the back, all just like lined up This sort of thing where you really get to see what all goes into – [Davin] Yeah, when you spread the motor out, it’s amazing how much space it takes It’s very gratifying when you put it back together, and you regain all that space (laughing) – [Ben] A whole table’s worth of parts – [Davin] Oh man, yes – [Ben] All right – [Davin] It was an eight footer – To Thirlby we go, once again And, here’s what we were talking about They’re scraping the heck out of this thing before they put it in their parts washer so they don’t end up with, yeah I mean you can see – Yeah, you can see the pile – All this down here, just amazing amounts of gunk comin’ off there I would not want that job – [Davin] No, Dave can have that (Ben laughing) – [Ben] Lots of old gaskets to scrape off – [Davin] Yeah, and we didn’t help him either We let him take all that out – Yep So, there was a question, and I answered it in the comment But, what these three big green bins are which the shot happens fast, and you don’t really see what’s going on – Yeah so, the very first one, you can see, has a huge chimney coming out of it That’s the fire and brimstone area – That’s just what, heating? – Just bake the daylights out of it – So, you’re just baking it to try and like get everything off? – It’s the same principle as a self cleaning oven – Okay – I mean you just heat the daylights out of it, and that stuff burns off – Okay – For the most part, it’s all oil, so it burns, you know it burns off pretty well It turns to charcoal So the second one, you go through and it actually bead blasts the whole assembly It’s almost a shot peen function And, then the last one is almost a pure tumble and– – [Ben] Cool down – Cool down Blows air across it and tries to get out all the shot blast and what’s left of the residue – Yeah, all right So he pulls it out, and then the big check is – Yep, this is the first go, no-go if you will for the block reuse He’s doing a magna flux function where you use this magnet and this powder they spray to it If there’s a crack, it will collect in the crack and almost like stand up if you will or highlight where the cracks at – The crack affects the magnetic field – Exactly, yep That indicates if you gotta, and lifter valleys are the first, most prone area for a crack to be at And, it’s not to say that if you have a crack in the block in this area that the block is junk It just means you’ve got different work for you Lots of times they can be repaired There’s a stitching process of overlapping screws, for the most part, that’ll fix those – Cool But, we passed that test No cracks, all good to go And then? – Onto the boring bar – So there are some questions of people were like, I guess maybe they missed this shot I don’t know But, people were like why would you hone it without boring it first And, I mean we did bore it – Yeah, we bored it first and then honed it
The only reason you would hone without a bore is if the diameter of the hole is such that you can clean it up with a bore or a hone I mean If you can just clean it up, put new, let’s say it’s still the size, and it’s still round, you’re just literally re-ringing a motor, you can freshen up that crosshatch with just a pure – [Ben] For oil retention? – Yeah, for more your sealing of the rings So you can put a fresh crosshatch in it and a fresh set of rings, and clean an engine up that way opposed to if you don’t need to But, as soon as you’re out of size, you have to bore And, it never makes sense to, I guess there’s maybe some circumstances where it would make sense to bore one hole versus all of them – And, when you say out of size, you mean out of circle, or out of just the size where a piston and a ring in available? – Both Well first off, you have to keep a certain clearance between the piston diameter and the wall of the cylinders So they’re never dead on because your piston’s gonna grow You know you want that hole to be so big, an X amount of clearance in there But, at the same token you don’t want it too big to where the piston actual rock in the hole It will destroy itself It’ll knock the skirts off And, then you have nothing quite honestly – [Ben] And, that is done, you’re just measuring it – [Davin] Yes, yep So you go through, you make the bores You check ’em for roundness as well and taper Taper’s really the biggest wear function They’ll change top to bottom And typically speaking, pistons are, with exception of having custom pistons made, you know off the shelf pistons are typical size of standard, 30 over, 40 over, and 60 over That’s just a very general statement And, then associated rings with them as well – So do you remember what we bored this to? – This is 30/1000ths over – Okay Now, is the order in which you do all this important? – [Davin] Yeah – [Ben] When you’re dealing with the block? – [Davin] Yeah, ’cause you want to make sure, again, you’re kind of going there’s two ways you’re looking at this You’re looking at that constant is this block usable? Right, so let’s say you had one cylinder or all the cylinders were so wore that you would have to sleave ’em There’s a point where it doesn’t make sense to sleave all eight cylinders unless of course there’s some huge valley relative to the block, something’s rare – Rare, or the numbers match your chassis, all that sort of stuff – Yeah, exactly right But yes, you would bore them first and then deck the surface Everything’s relative to the crank center line as far as how it’s machined – [Ben] And decking is simply you’re making it flat again, so it creates a good seal with the gasket and the heads? – [Davin] Exactly, yep – [Ben] All right, onto the hone And, that’s essentially polishing and putting the crosshatch pattern in – Yep That honing process is your final So you rough cut along the boring bar It’s very repeatable and tolerance is fantastic But, this is really your fly hair that you’re working out with the hone, and you’re putting that crosshatch in there to create the good seal with the rings – There you go He’s checking it with the micrometer there – Yeah, block is all ready – Onto the heads Now these heads needed a decent amount of work And, part of it was voluntary, I guess, and part of it was necessary – Well yeah Yeah, all of the above So going with a fairly more aggressive cam, you start to stress the production, pressed in studs So from Ford and a lot of the manufacturers did the same thing, they use what they call press in studs So you have that cast iron boss, they’re drilled to a certain size There’s X amount of press fit between the cast iron and the steal stud As you start to increase that lift, it puts more force trying to suck that stud out And as you change that, obviously you’re not going to be opening up the valve, and, you’re going to be losing performance Ultimately you’re going to have parts laying in the bottom of the pan – So we went through and pulled those studs out He’s got a hydraulic press, for lack of a better word, that draws them out, and then goes through and drills and taps them – [Ben] So this is then being tapped, and then those studs will be put in later in the assembly process – [Davin] Yep – [Ben] So he flips the head around, and then what are we seeing here? – So here, he’s taking the valves out ’cause we put hardened seats in this – [Ben] And, the point of hardened seats is what?
Normally are the seats just the cast iron, the same material, or they’re actual? – Yeah, in normal, in this vintage of an engine, these were all designed to work with lead gasoline Today’s gasoline is all 100% lead free So it’s tetraethyline or something along that line, but at any rate it was what was put in the gasoline at the time actually as a lubricant But, then also it had properties for temperature The newer call it lead free gasoline And, I saw newer, it’s only been around for 50 years (Ben laughing) It tends to burn really hot on the exhaust side So hardened seats take more temperature, and all the temperature tends to be concentrated all on the exhaust side opposed to on the intake – Okay – So when things you know a big term is yeah I had hardened seats put in it That typically is being referred to as the exhaust side It’s not to say that you don’t replace the intake seats because you certainly can if they’re wore out – [Ben] So both were replaced on this? – [Davin] Yes, they were – [Ben] They were just worn, and you figure since we’re replacing ’em, you might as well put the hardened seats in – [Davin] Yeah – [Ben] And, is there such a thing as hardened seats for intake, or you only do it on the exhaust? – [Davin] Well yeah, for the most part, it’s just on the exhaust – [Ben] ‘Cause it’s more of a pure heat function – [Davin] And, then they get a you know multi angle valve job to ’em And, that’s for flow and for sealing – [Ben] Gotcha – [Davin] And of course, surface the bottom of ’em, so they match up nice to the head – So back over to Mike And, Mike’s doing what over there on that little red press? – So Mike in this little red press, he’s putting new rod bolts in – [Ben] Okay – [Davin] The majority of your rod failures are the rod bolts themselves They stretch, fatigue, the end cap comes off, and the piston starts to go all willy nilly with everything else – Getting slapped around by the crankshaft and everything else So these rods got new bearings, new bolts? – Yeah, you get new bushings in the small end, at the piston side, the small end So he got new bushings there and cleans them up as well He also, in this shot here, he’s resurfacing the, call it the width of the rod So that way, as they– – [Ben] Where they mate – [Davin] Yeah, where they go together, you get enough clearance, rod clearance – [Ben] So because you’re taking material off then, you’re basically changing it into an oval – [Davin] Well, this is on the surfaces – Right, but if you take the middle out of a circle, you’re turning it, maybe not oval, but like football shaped almost which brings you to– – Right, so he cleaned up both surfaces So he cleaned up, call it the perpendicular surface to the bolts, and then he also cleaned up the parallel surface to the bolts So he cleaned up side clearance and mating surface of the cap and the rod And, then that certainly necessitates resizing that big end – [Ben] And, you’re sizing that, when he sizes that, he knows what bearings are going in there? So then he sizes it to the– – [Davin] Yeah, he sizes it back to spec, yeah – [Ben] And, then the bearings have both an ID and an OD, so they fit in there, but also fit to the– – [Davin] Crankshaft, correct, yeah – [Ben] Cool So he’s got his little measuring tool up there – Yeah, so this is basically honed just like is being used for the block on itself, same principle And, then you have a three pronged gauge that he’s setting them on to measure it At the end of the day, it’s really comparator really more than it is anything else So he sets it up to the nominal size, and then from a comparator function, it’s X amount over or X amount under – Okay All right, nearing the end – Up in that upper right, it’s a little heating element So what you do is, we’re using these as a, pistons can be assembled in two ways They’re either press fit, or they’re referred to as pin fit And, pin fit allows you to push them on by hand, and then use E clips or clips to hold the wrist pin relative to the piston – And, that’s what the Volkswagen was with just the little clips – Yep, the Volkswagen, the Harley, the hemi We did those all that way
They call ’em a floating wrist pin And, then you have press fit where the pin is literally press fit into the small end of the rod – [Ben] So you can see him setting up right here – [Davin] Yep So as you warm up that small end of the rod, the hole gets larger by nature of expansion and contraction, – Expansion and contraction – Exactly And, literally that pin just slides right in And, as soon as that cools, it’s in there It would take a press to push it back out But, you don’t press them in because you always risk a concern of not getting them in squared It’s easier just to heat ’em up and do this I mean that’s not to say it can’t be done – It seems like it goes a lot, I mean when I set up the shot it all happened a lot faster than I thought it was going to, and as soon as he put it in there, it pushed right in – Yeah, he uses like a little hand push to just push ’em in You can see it laying there on the table – [Ben] Oh yeah, so he’s just using his hands to– – [Davin] So literally, he’s just taking that rod, setting it in there and going (hums) And, it’s as easy as that And, by the time it gets over here by the plastic rack, you wouldn’t be able to push it back out with a hammer – That’s crazy All right, so this is just quick polish, right? There’s nothing really that needed to be done with the– – Yeah, Mark went through and measured everything Everything was to size or within the specifications And, then just did a quick polish on it to take off an roughness and that fashion – All right, almost back to the assembly process – So we got a beautifully clean block Some people like to paint after they assemble I prefer to paint before we assemble ’cause that’s the cleanest that block’s gonna be And to me, as long as I take my time, I still end up with a good piece It’s kind of like painting a wall and then putting the trim on Or, putting the trim on and taping off the trim to paint the wall There’s two blues in the Ford world There’s a lighter blue and then the darker blue And obviously, we went with the darker blue on this one – Looks good – Yeah, it even matches the Travers there, the banner That’s slick And, we prime ’em You know we prime ’em with epoxy primer there to begin with And, then this happens to be a single stage instead of a two stage with a clear coat We opted for a single stage It’s got a lot of gloss to it It looks really good It holds up very well We said before, there’s a place for– – There’s a place for rattle cans – Yeah, selling rattle can, engine paint, and that But, even if you had to shoot this outside with some paint, it’ll hold up better in the long run – Yep, back in the shop All right, so first step? – [Davin] First step after everything’s cleaned up is start putting in freeze plugs They fill up the holes relative to the casting process into the water jacket And, they do serve a second purpose as if you happen to have water, the idea is that those plugs would pop out if it froze I would not rely on that I wouldn’t start a motor with water in it ’cause I’ve seen plenty of ’em crack below that water – [Ben] Still plenty of places for water to get frozen and expanded, and the bad things – Yeah, it’s amazing the power of hydraulics – All right, so it looks like you’re putting something in where the camshaft – Yep, so here we’re putting in camshaft bearings They’re very specific on where the hole is at relative to the hole The hole in the cam bearing is very specific to the hole in the block You want to have them line up, otherwise you’d plug your oil feed So your cam would not get oil, and that wouldn’t work very well – And, then as quickly as we put it on, we gotta pull it off – Yeah, we had to take it off And, the reason for that is you need to put half in from one side and half in from the other side In hindsight, I could’ve stuck ’em all in first and then put the freeze plugs in later, maybe next time – Maybe next time Especially with this sort of thing when we get started with the video shot, once the stuff’s in, like you can’t go back – No, exactly – I mean there’s some stuff like if we had to – Some stuff, we can take back – But, when you’re hammering stuff in, it’s a little different So you got a couple little threaded plugs there – Yeah, they’re threaded plugs in the back, and mainly because they go directly to the outside world leak path-wise I put just some Teflon, liquid Teflon on to seal ’em up real good And, then on all the freeze plugs and in this cam plug as well, I always use the Hitac it’s called And, it’s just a sealer, but it’s not an RTV sealer
It’s more of a form of gasket function – [Ben] So first part of the performance upgrade being installed – [Davin] Yep, first part is this flat tappet camshaft but on a solid lifter And, what that allows is the solid lifter is over the hydraulics perform better in general terms because they’re a little more efficient Because you with hydraulics, you’re relying on oil pressure to keep that lifter solid, but it also is quieter because you do not have any mechanical lash or gap So in a solid lifter camshaft, you have to set up a gap in there so it has room for expansion again relative to heat But, in doing that, you can get a little more aggressive cam load because you know exactly where it’s gonna be at if you will – That’s crazy to me that things as like when they’re in your hand that are as solid as steal– – Oh yeah, that it changes – That it changes And, that not only that, but we know that, and then it is engineered– – To do it – To do it, and to be managed in the whole process of to not only work when it’s cold but then also to work when it’s heated up I don’t know That stuff is always cool to me – So I’m sure everybody noticed that I used two different kind of lubrication I have in standard molly-b-dium I never can say that right, white grease if you will And, I use that on usually on all the rod, on all the bearing type functions But, on the camshaft, I like to use that red camshaft lube that comes with them It tends to stick a little better And, in the camshaft, if you think about it is hanging out in midair, and you don’t want all that lubricant to drip off of it – Right – And, with the molybde-mum, it’s not as sticky So it does tend to drip off But of course, when it’s trapped by a bearing, it’s not dripping off It’s stuck there – It’s being held in place – And, it has some economic benefit to it – [Ben] Every time you do this for all these, it always confuses me It’s like well you haven’t put the crankshaft in yet – [Davin] You forgot something – [Ben] What are you tightening everything down for? But, walk me through why you do that – So, one of the key areas, I would say, is the first error of any assembly, okay, is again we’ve talked about the engineering standpoint of why there’s clearances They are important, and they’re designed to do certain things So in this case, you have your multilayer bearing and steal trapped around it Well the bearing surface, I mean it has its function relative to a bearing But, it doesn’t work at all without lubrication So if the bearing was, let’s say the exact same size as the steal part that’s going inside of it, it would still gaul up and freeze It would not do its function You have to have a thin layer of oil in there to act as its lubrication So what I’m doing here is, and the only way to measure this, the best way to measure this is to physically know what that size is So what I’m doing here is I’m taking the two half shell bearings, trapping them inside the cap and the block just like it’s going to be assembled I am torquing them exactly the way they’re going to be torqued down because that takes any deflection or anything funny out of it This is how it will be And, then I’m going through it and using a comparator again, but it’s set up based on a mic So there’s a value for the bore, and then I’m comparing that in a plus or minus fashion – Previous to this, you see in the background, you were – [Davin] Yeah, mic-ing the crankshaft up, right – [Ben] Gotcha – [Davin] So right there I happen to be measuring rods, but I do the rods and the mains, they’re the same principle So you’d get a nominal value, and what the size is – Right there, you’re on – So let’s just, argument’s sake, this isn’t the number, but let’s say it’s there two inches on the number, well then when I go when I put the bearing in the caps, and I measure that, I want to see 2/1000ths I want to see that hole to be 2/1000ths larger than the rod as an example – So you’re giving that 2/1000ths there is for the oil to be and to keep it lubricated – Right And for a good rule of thumb, a piece of paper is 3/1000ths That’s pretty sticking thin, but it makes
all the world of difference And, in this motor actually, spec-wise, ’cause I remember I’m always interested in what the factory specs were or amazed maybe even sometimes is the clearance for these rods or mains were roughly I think is was .0009 So just a shade under a thousandth which is really tight, but then up to three and a half – Oh okay, so you had all kinds of room to– – Yeah pretty good room There’s a where you want to be at you know relative to spec too I tend depending on what the motor’s being used for, I’ll stick to one side versus another So in a street application, I tend to stick a little tighter because it’s gonna see a lot more mileage, that type of stuff And, then on a race motor, you tend to stick a little bit higher, a little looser It’s faster type of thing – Faster meaning less friction? – Yes, exactly – Less things getting in the way of getting that power to your wheels – Right, yep – [Ben] All right, so (blowing raspberry) getting some more goop on there – Yep, that’s more of that molly lube Then of course, the main cap has a seal because it’s external Up here, that’s the only seal on the crank shaft is on the rear main seal which is the token, I got a drop in the middle of my motor on my garage floor where is it from? Main seal, virtually every time unless of course the valve covers are peeing all over All right, so now here I’m doing the same principle as on the main caps So I take every one of the piston assemblies, put the bearing in, torque down the cap to the spec, and then compare ’em in right there And, the same idea, I’m looking for that clearance – [Ben] So that first show where you were on the crankshaft, those measurements, you’re doing those both for the mains and for the rods? – [Davin] Yes, yep – Now, anything special, again, we talked about the camshaft being more aggressive Was there anything in regards to the pistons going in? – Yeah, the JE pistons were what’s considered, I think it was a four or five CC valve relief So that technically is a recess in the piston So instead of being dead flat across the top, you have a little extra – Okay, so you can see – Yeah, there you can see it Clearance for the intake and exhaust valves, but that calculates into the compression side of things So you could have, where the two happens to be on that piston, you could have actually a dome right there So that dome, if you remember on the hemi, we had that big dome that went up into the chamber? You could do the same thing on these as well And, that dome could be, gosh it could be pretty big And, you could also have a dish that could be up in the 36 range, 36 CC is almost a quarter inch deep in there, and that’s to bring that compression down – So what was the target compression ratio we were going for? – Target compression ratio was nine and a half And, I ended up calculation-wise at 9.46 – Close enough, I guess – So close enough, right – Does the compression ratio now change what kind of fuel you have to put in it? – That’s why I skated towards the nine and a half Originally, this motor would’ve been like 10.2, 10 and a half, somewhere up in that range And, the reason, I shouldn’t say that particular motor was not, but the high performance version would’ve been in that range And, the fuel back in that era had more oomph to it It had a higher octane rating And now, it’s hard to get, not hard to get It’s always easy to get ’93, but ’87 is certainly more economical So I targeted in that nine and a half, so it at least gives you the zone of I can pull up to the gas pump and get ’87 to ’93 all the time So where it likes, it’ll you know be able to get fuel for it without an issue – [Ben] All right, so what are you doing here? You’ve got everything numbered Is it specific rings to specific, like why? – Yep, everything’s numbered because, well quite frankly, when you went home that night before – (laughing)Right – I stayed up into the wee hours of the night filing pistons which is an entertaining as I don’t know It would make watching grass grow entertaining – That was not the only instance of things that I went home and you know put my kids to bed and slept, and you were up until two a.m
doing something extra because otherwise there’s really no point in me being there for a shot that would last all of one or two seconds and would take you four or five hours – So to get back to it So basically what filing the rings means is so you take every ring with the exception of call it the corrugated ring which is the oil control ring You really have four rings You have an upper ring, a second, you know, a top ring, a bottom ring in the compression area, and then you have an upper and lower oil control ring, and then you have the middle ring, if you will, in that oil control area that’s the corrugated deal But any rate, so what you do is you take the rings, and you set ’em you know one inch down into the bore that it’s going into, and then use a feeler gauge and you check how much those end gaps come around So as an end gap comes around, and for instance, in this one it’s 4/1000ths for every inch of bore, so 16/1000ths overall – Okay – That’s what you want that gap to be at And, the reason for the gap is again back to the heat scenario That gap is gonna close up as it warms up And, you do not want the ends to hit against each other because then they have to go this, and then they start to make a whole lot of ugly again So it’s a real fine, you know when they say an orchestra’s very fine tuned? Well, there’s an orchestra, I’ll tell ya because every engine has to have that balance, otherwise anything off, and it’s not gonna last very long That’s not to say it won’t last – It’s the fine tuning – Yeah exactly And of course, rings in general as well, like I mentioned, you have a top ring and a bottom ring, and you do not want to get them flip flopped because they may be different upper and lower Pretty much all the piston rings if it’s specific to that, they’ll have a dimple that not only which way the ring goes, up or down, but then also relative to which groove it goes in top or down – Lots of stuff to keep track of – Yeah And, you know these are a molly ring again You don’t want to over spread them ’cause you risk cracking ’em That’s why the tool’s handy But, you can put ’em in by hand, but then you start to get fingertips that looks worse than mine – All right, in go the pistons – [Davin] All right, so it’s pure and simple piston assembly You can see I upgraded on our tool here So I have a nice little clamp deal It does work really nice And of course, oil the daylights out of everything as you can see – Yep, and you’re, I mean obviously it’s important to put them all in the right places Are these numbered differently than other engines we’ve assembled before? – Ah yeah (laughing) It’s funny you should mention that, Ben Yes, seemingly every, there must’ve been some weird engineering seminar where they all got together and brainstormed on how they could differently order you know the firing orders on stuff because everyone has their own idea it seems like So if you’re very hard grained in the direction that one company does, when you go to the next company, you better check it about 12 times because you’ll probably get it wrong 11 of those Hopefully the last time is the correct way So yes, for instance in Ford land here, the passenger side front is number one, and then they labeled them, and it’s specifically to the firing order, so you have one, two, three, four – [Ben] All on one side? – [Davin] Down the passenger side, and then you have five, six, seven, eight on the driver’s side – [Ben] From the front to the back – Unlike another favorite bow tie brand that has them the opposite, but even different then, number one is on the diver’s side front, and it alternates odd to even So all the evens are on the passenger’s side, all the odds are on the other side – So they can get you in a lot of trouble treating a Ford like a Chevy – Yeah, there’s two places it would bite you First off, you know pistons have an orientation they have to be in because you want the intake relief to match the intake valve as opposed to the other way which wouldn’t work very well And, then, again, you want to have those rods in the right order, in the right space, otherwise you could get things messed up And of course, then when you go to put the plug wears on, that’s a whole ‘nother field Learning experiences So here, we’re ready for the timing gear So timing gear slides on, I’ll say like all the rest of ’em
But, what’s different than, the hemi would’ve had it, but we didn’t use it We opted for some different ways of fueling it But, that big silver, it looks like a pulley quite honestly, that’s the eccentric for the push rod on the fuel pump Or, I should say the arm on the fuel pump Because your arm sticks in there a good six inches it seems like And, then as that rotates, of course it goes basically up and down on the rod and gives you your pumping function And again – More goop And, there’s a swinger on there for the lower gear That’s what that last little piece is right here It’s an oil slinger, so it picks up oil in the bottom of the pan, and it slings it up on the chain – That’s cool – And, now you have a fairly large aluminum cover That’s your timing cover It’s a timing cover, water pump, fuel pump, pan, oil pan mount I guess we’re gonna use all the functions in there – [Ben] All in one – And of course, the crank seal too Yeah, crank seal went in there That was already installed And, then you have the harmonic balancer that has the numbers on here Those are beautiful from an after market standpoint I’d highly recommend And, one of the reasons to actually change your, we didn’t use the stock one, for one particular reason, and that is harmonic balancers on a stock function always have there’s a steal band and a steal hub, and they’re separated by a rubber band that’s inside of it It’s a bonding agent and a rubber dampener And, those’ll crack, and then they’ll lose their tension, and that outer band will start to slip It causes you two problems One is, as it turns or slips, your timing mark moves on ya, so now the timing gets to be different But, the worst part is if they start to rattle inside themselves and then shake the engine apart ’cause you can get out of balance there – It’s not harmonic anymore – It’s not harmonic, or harmonica – Yeah Hey, who’s that guy? – Hey, look at that Yeah, and then you have your, this motor is intended for all kinds of accessories It’ll have an alternator, no power steering, (laughing) no air conditioning, pure All you need is an alternator on this, that’s it That’s all any engine ever needs is that – So it doesn’t have to power all that superfluous stuff – No, that’s right – Who needs power steering and air conditioning? – If you want all that, take the bus I guess (laughing) Here’s the oil pump going on Obviously, we’ll put the timing cover on, but sometimes we’ll have the pump on already In this case, we’ve waited But because of that, you can see the timing cover completes the pan route on this engine – Okay Oh yeah, I can see that right here – The bolt side of it as much as the, yeah exactly So you have you know your oil pump, the actual gear part of it is right up here And, then your pickup tube here that goes into the oil pan That’s the big sump section of it – [Ben] All right, getting ready for the gasket here And, that’s just what clear silicone? – [Davin] Yeah, I’m using clear silicone here You could use black, orange, whatever color you want to use That’s independent What I like about the clear silicone is when it oozes out the sides, you don’t see it So it looks clean and crisp with that cork gasket hanging out there – So there were several comments of why on earth would you put a cork gasket in there? – Oh yes Well, and there’s always also the why on earth are you putting silicone on a cork gasket? It’s already a sealer Well, it is, but it’s not in the corners ’cause there’s a gap And yes, is cork gasket my favorite? No, it’s not A one piece rubber is great if they’re a precision gasket Some of ’em are, some of ’em aren’t And, then the other side of it is you know there’s some of these that are like a multilayer kind of a rubber cork mixture Those are probably the best because at the end of the day, the cork gaskets, they will dry out, and they will crack, and they will leak I mean that’s what happens with cork Unfortunately that was in the kit that we bought It is what it is It’ll be fine for many, many years – And, sometimes it’s just an availability issue too, right? – Exactly, yes – If someone is actually making one – Yeah, there’s some situations where they’re not made for it For this one, yes, we could’ve got a cork gasket, or a rubberized gasket And, these have rubber to some extent, just not to that extent What’s really tough to find is the self turning bolts ’cause you have self tapping you can buy them all day long
But, finding these self turning ones is exceptional – If we could only find that for the rest of the engine, then we wouldn’t even have– – [Davin] We’d just sit and grab coffee all the time – [Ben] We wouldn’t even need you anymore – [Davin] Oh no, you gotta have somebody to drink the coffee And, I’ll say that I took these original bolts and actually plated them – [Ben] Oh, that’s cool So all these shiny it looks like brand new bolts, are the original bolts? – Yeah, the original bolts at least that were on the engine when we tore it apart There’s always argument maybe that they’re not the right bolts, but that’s a whole ‘nother discussion – They look right to me – But no, so, I took these, I cleaned ’em up in an ultrasonic cleaner, got ’em very nice and clean from that aspect, and then put ’em in like a tumbler, and little stainless rods in there and it tumbles around and polishes ’em And, then there’s a three, call it a three part, three step process for zinc plating And, if I haven’t had access to it thanks to a very good friend of mine in his restoration shop, and we did those ones late evening again, but there’s also if you had, where you wanted to do all these yourself as well, across the country there’s plenty of plating companies Find one on the web, you know locally And, they would charge you probably 50 bucks for that lot They’re all gonna be the same, and so on and so forth Take ’em in, and they’ll go through the process for you Which after I spent the four hours doing it, 50 bucks would’ve been nice I would spend that All right, so here the heads are One thing to kind of scroll back, unfortunately you’re not gonna be able to see it Again, another one of those late night clean ups that my mind says I always have to do is I did a little polishing or porting work on the, call it the backside of the valves So in the port fashion, so you have your valves that go into the, get covered up, but when you have your seats in there like we’re showing there’s always a ridge in there because you’re machining into the casting, then your seat is typically smaller than that hole or idea of a counter bore So I just take a die grinder and go inside there and clean that up just to smooth it out I don’t get crazy with the porting, but it helps the flow about 30% really easily – Okay, so that’s just a simple performance thing you’re taking off any hard ridges – Exactly – And, that’s just to increase, and do you do that both exhaust and intake? – Yes – Okay So you’re just smoothing the airflow in and out? – Exactly – I dig your little stand here – You like those pegs? Yeah those work nice It gets ’em up off the ground and around the bench and not flip flopping ’em so much And, of course you can access and put the valves right here – When I think of the Chevy small block, and then also the hemi– The hemi would’ve been really nice – Yeah Yeah the hemi, it was all you could do for one person to lift one of those heads – Yeah, Santa was very good to us this year, a couple extra toys So back before we put on all these rings, and we can show just like the last two here So here you have obviously these are all on, but you have the valve is hanging up out of here, and there’s a seal right here – That’s all these guys down here – Yeah, right down here, these are the seals by themselves Of course, the valves tips up here But, you see there’s like some shims, or exactly shims, but so what happens here So now in the order of assembly, right, keep going back – [Ben] Back? – [Davin] There is it – [Ben] I mean there’s five seconds in between Oh you’re measuring the– – [Davin] Right here – [Ben] We can probably find it in another shot There you go – [Davin] There we are All right so what my point is here is the springs need to be set at a certain height They have an operating height These were at one inch, 750 if I remember correctly So what you end up having to do is, so you have your retainer, and you have your spring obviously in the assembled fashioned And, at the seat height, or where they’re at right now, or the valve is closed, you have a specific distance from there to there, if you will, that compressed height of the spring The unit here is just a micrometer that basically opens, gets longer, but it has a measuring device on it So you can see what the number is So what you do is you keep a keeper and a retainer and you assemble it 100% like you would over here, but instead of using the spring you use that gauge You just tighten it up, and you measure what that gauge
is and then you shim it accordingly You want to be, you know if it calls out you know one inch, 750, you want to be plus or minus 5/1000ths is what I shoot for Obviously, nominal’s the best, but if you happen to be a little bit over or a little bit under, it’s fine – So you’re just using your calipers over here – Yeah, calipers to make sure my shims are the sizes they need to be – [Ben] Gotcha – [Davin] Shims, I got them all through Thirlby’s They’re readily available through a machine shop function – There’s a good shot of you adjusting the height there Cool – And again, in all these type of deal, you can slap ’em all together You know you can take any motor and just slap ’em together That’s not a problem But, that blue printing function that you hear a lot of, that’s what this is It’s just measuring it and putting it all the same Or, you know whatever the clearance needs to be or in this case, the heights But, you put ’em all the same ’cause then every cylinder is gonna perform evenly, or at least a better chance to perform evenly All right, so there’s the head gasket going on because it’s such a shiny surface and the head gasket really doesn’t change color very much ’cause there was a question of whether we put head gasket on it? Yes, we did – [Ben] Yes, a head gasket goes on – [Davin] One thing, on this engine, and most of ’em are, but this one specifically, the head gaskets, you can’t flip ’em over ’cause they’re not symmetric in that fashion – Okay, so left has to go on the left, right has to go on right – Well it has to be up – Oh okay – They’re symmetric right to left They’re not symmetric up and down if that makes sense on the head gasket – Gotcha And, then what’s your lower chart you’re looking at there? Is that an order for– – [Davin] Yeah so, I’ll give a dollar to anybody who remembers or still has theirs So way back when, probably in the ’80s God, that doesn’t seem that long ago, but roughly in the ’80s in my subscription in high school, I got this in the mail Every year, you would get something special in a plastic wrapper from Hot Rod magazine And, that is what came in And, it’s a beautiful little diagram of, I’ll say most of the engines, and it gives you just general torque specs, mainly your, you know this chart here is the torque sequence which is very needed You know you want to torque everything down in a sequence that’s involved – Take that Google – Oh yeah, exactly right (Ben laughing) And, that chart has never failed me It’s the best – That’s awesome It’s fun having little stuff like that especially when it hearkens back to your like early days of being a car guy – It’s at least 20 years old – All right, so here finally are the threaded – Yep, so here’s the threaded studs These went into the water jacket So that’s why we used Teflon on ’em, again, to seal it up, make sure it doesn’t have any leak You don’t want to leak up through the threads – And, double nutting just ’cause they’re– – Yeah, double nutting them, and you’re not torquing the daylights out of ’em ’cause you’re not trying to pull the thread out ’cause you are bottoming out You could easily, I’ll say easily, pull the thread up But, you want ’em hand tight, but I use the double nut and a wrench ’cause I get a better feel for hand tight – [Ben] And, onto the next one Hey look, there’s another head gasket – [Davin] Yep, another head gasket on – [Ben] And, the torque sequence, and more studs – A little more wipe down Onto the distributor – There were several people being like why on earth would you put the old distributor in there when you can just by a knew one or do some type of electric, you know computerized something or whatever? – Exactly With this particular engine, we could’ve done multitudes There’s a lot of other solutions So yes, you could’ve done an electronic upgrade We stuck with the original points on this We could’ve also done a dual point distributor Which one of the performance options for Ford was a dual points I look at it as kind of dual trouble as well, but that’s maybe another discussion In myself as a car guy, I see my responsibility as to use the parts already produced if I can If they’re not junk, use ’em And, these are not junk So yes, I took the extra time Is it economically feasible, you know one way or the other?
Well, you can always argue that I mean it depends what your time is worth – [Ben] In our case, it’s cool to see it get cleaned up and be used again – Quite frankly, most people don’t see how easy it is I think I had an hour into cleaning that up – And, what we’ll see later is we took this time to do a how-to video of how to rebuild your distributor So we double-dipped a little bit on our content And yeah, it’s one less piece of junk that’s going to the junkyard if you’re that type of person that cares about that sort of thing – Well if you’re a hot rodder, you already are ’cause you’re already not buying a brand new car (Ben laughing) In general, pull it apart, clean it all up, you know inspect everything, and grease, and lube it, or lube it and put it back together So here, we’re putting the solid lifters back in or in And again, lubing them up and making sure they move freely in the bore and all that And, then push rods (Ben mimicking engine sounds) – [Ben] More lube (laughing) We were accused of A not using solid lifters which we did, and also not using rolling rockers – Well there’s two versions of roller rockers There’s one with tips which is what we’re using, and then there’s full rollers And, a full roller instead of having the kind of half moon washer at the bottom of the fulcrum piece, that would actually be a needle bearing in a roller – Oh okay – So yes, we took some compromise We didn’t go to the full blown, full in roller rocker We used just a roller tip – So the point where it actually rocks is a bearing – Yeah, so yes Here’s your roller tip, and then this could be a roller going across that, and then you need a bearing going across We have, like it would be on a stock, and it would be just a fulcrum style – [Ben] Now is that something that was available then? – No It would’ve been available on the aftermarket, but it was not the stock function In fact, stock push rods, or stock rockers on the Cobras would’ve been just the standard or forged you know rocker – And, so that was part of this build is we wanted to do more of a period appropriate deal – As best as yeah I mean there’s areas that make sense, and there’s areas it didn’t One of the things that you do get into, and there would’ve been room We could’ve done full roller across here There would’ve been enough space But, those do get into some issues especially when you’re trying to put valve covers on ’em You might get too tall for valve covers Granted, the Holman Moody valve covers had plenty of room – [Ben] So then this shot, while it appears as though there’s not a lot going on, you’re obviously rotating it ’cause you see the rockers going But, what are you doing here? – And, you would do this if it was hydraulic or not, the setting is different So what I’m doing here is I’m going through and setting the lash And again, if it was a hydraulic can, you would set the lash, but you’d take it to zero lash, and then turn it you know a quarter to half a turn more to push the plunger out On a solid lifter, you bring it to, let’s say you bring it to zero, but then you back it off and using a feeler gauge between the roller tip on the rocker and the top of the valve stem, and you set that clearance And, this cam shaft called for 22/1,000ths on intake and exhaust That’s not always the case It can vary anywhere from 14 to 24 I’ve seen quite a few different ones It depends what the camshaft manufacturer wants In fact, if you backup right here So right here, looking at it today, I see one thing that we did wrong on this whole build at this point in time And, that’s right, in fact I’m pointing to it right there (laughing) So the learning experience is when you’re assembling certain engines and you buy the kit of freeze plugs, and when you have all the holes filled in this particular brand that has a bow tie on it You typically have extra plugs And, I have no idea why, but it’s a generic kit that covers a multitude of configurations, right? So when I had an extra plug sitting on the table and putting all the freeze plugs in the oil gallery plugs, it was of no alarm to me that I had an extra one, right? Completely blew it off because we did not pull all the plugs out – Right, you didn’t have it in your mind of I pulled this out, something needs to go back in – Exactly
And, it was so gooped that when you look back at the engine block with all the goop in it from years of abuse, you cannot see clearly, at least, that there is a plug that goes right there Now, what happens with that plug, the function of that plug is to seal off that passage way of the oil feed from the right to left standpoint of the lifters So you get all kinds of oil going down this because your oil pump remember is up in here So it fills all the way down this, right? But, it doesn’t create enough pressure to push that oil up the push rods and then onto the rocker arms, and the springs and so on and so forth Where you see that at is if that plugs not there, when you’re priming it you don’t get excessive amount of pressure like 60 or 80 You get, what’d we have 20, 25? – Yeah, 20-ish, yeah – So at that point it was like– – Something’s wrong – Uh-oh (laughing) So what is not shown ’cause we clearly put the intake manifold on – Yep, ready – And, boom – Yep, one of our commentors caught it It’s like oh look, it’s there Congrats to you, I forget what your name is, but yes you caught it We forgot to put that plug in – But, we caught it immediately when it was on the test stand, and we were priming it So we started priming it, and we’re like uh we’re missing something – All right, so last little bits of stuff here – Yeah, so we put in a Fram Ultra Guard filter which meets and exceeds everyone of the OEM specs So I know everybody has their brand preference I have my brand preference on everything as well This may or may not be my brand preference But, the point is it’s a perfectly good filter We had some concerns, as well as we had concerns with all the parts and pieces that we use And, I get it That’s cool, and that’s the beauty about this is everybody had their preferences – That is a huge fuel pump – Yes They had extra time to design this fuel pump because they put a fuel filter in the bottom of it which is a fantastic idea As opposed to having it along the line somewhere, you take it really from you know a couple added leak paths to only one ’cause you can’t lose You only have one spot that’s sealing And, of course it had that real long arm that goes up in there So you eliminate that a camed piece eliminates a push rod which is a potential failure point – [Ben] Distributor – Yeah, dropped the distributor in Of course, setting that in there making sure you know you want to rough set the rotor to be at number one, firing number one And of course fully engaged with your oil pump push rod This one has a hex You have two mating hexes that have to come together, otherwise it won’t drop all the way down there which is simple enough to take, it happens to be a 5/16ths hex, a long extension, just rotate it a little bit till it drops straight down And, there we are, look at that Those are some beautiful valve covers by the way – They do look good – And, putting clear coat on the intake, and all the aluminum bits, keep them nice and clean as well – [Ben] Oil – [Davin] Have some GT performance racing oil from Pennzoil, and also we added extra cam break in lube – [Ben] Per the– – [Davin] Per the cam manufacturer as well And, I don’t remember if we showed or not Again, we primed it That’s when we caught that it needed to be– – Oh yeah, I think you showed it I think it was in here somewhere Yep, there it is – There we go Yep, so there we’re priming it – And, over here the engine stand, I was giving you the oil pressure And, that’s when we were like oh, oh yeah – So we finished off the shot, and there’s a break in the day – In between this shot and this shot, Davin pulled the intake manifold off – We pulled the old switcheroo and put the plug in – Movie magic – Yes – [Ben] All right plugs – Put in plugs, of course the seal there And, then we hooked up some mufflers on this one instead of wide open headers I thought that was a good idea – [Ben] It still sounded great – Yeah, it does And, these are, (coughing) excuse me, call it a factory tri Y header They’re after market built They’re not originals
They’re not the cast iron version, but they are a tubular version – [Ben] All right, wires, air cleaner, ready to rumble Fuel – [Davin] Yep, put some fuel – Now, did you end up going with a higher octane? – Yeah, I put in ’93 octane to start with And, then that way it’s always a safe bet Once it’s in the car, and you’re putting it under load, and all that because it’s difficult to catch spark knock, if you will, when you’re doing it with no load on it It’ll spark knock under load but not free wheeling (engine revving) – Oh sounded good – So that’s the first motor we’ve had on there that doesn’t have solid mounts And, I was amazed at how much it rocked on that stand It was fantastic (Ben burbling) (laughing) – Yeah, you can see the rubber mounts right there.- – Yeah, the stock mounts on it – So there’s it You got another one going Nice work That was awesome It looks good It sounds good – It does – Lots of folks helped us out, appreciate that as always – Yes, the quality of the parts are amazing you know today So we’re at five more cubes than that 289 originally was, thereabouts And, we’re at 20% to 25% more horse 20 I guess it would be Based on the parts that I put in it for another build, that would be at about 310 horse, and at pretty low, I’ll say low, but it’s about 4,500 RPM peak as far as that 310 is concerned And, then it carries through nice So that dyno sheet was pretty There’s no reason to think that this would be any different I can’t wait to slide it into a car which who knows what that might be and take it for a roast That’d be fun – That would be All right, well congrats on another successful build and another couple months here, we’ll have another one for you guys – And again, thank you for all the amazing editing because you know– – I can take credit for all the shooting Thanks to Sandin who edited this, another one of our video guys here at Hagerty Did an awesome job as usual But yeah, if you guys have any other questions about it, feel free to leave those in the comments And as always, like, subscribe, share, spread the word, and we’ll see you next time – That’s right Take care – See, yeah (engine revving)